Thread: Bread Knifing???

Originally Posted by thorxes

Yeah, this was the first time I've ever seen the double frown.

Just curious; when you hit up the DMT or 220, how long do you expect to hit this up for before you'll get an edge able to progress up to the 1k? (# of laps, if possible).

There is no time, it is sharpness progression, you have to understand I do more edge restoration than most people do, I mean that is what people send to me to work on, are "Restoration Razors", so I get more practice at this then most, so I am pretty fast at it...
You are looking for that edge to feel sharp like a knife, then drop it down to spine level, and start honing it like a razor...

I can tell you that when I did the technique I use, at the Denver meet the guys mostly all said the same thing "I didn't realize you could do that, to a razor"

I will really try for a Video this Sunday...

Originally Posted by gssixgun

There is no time, it is sharpness progression, you have to understand I do more edge restoration than most people do, I mean that is what people send to me to work on, are "Restoration Razors", so I get more practice at this then most, so I am pretty fast at it...
You are looking for that edge to feel sharp like a knife, then drop it down to spine level, and start honing it like a razor...

I can tell you that when I did the technique I use, at the Denver meet the guys mostly all said the same thing "I didn't realize you could do that, to a razor"

I will really try for a Video this Sunday...

Fair enough. Thanks for the info.

Originally Posted by Utopian

A lot more steel has to be removed after breadknifing, so a DMT or coarse hone will speed up the job, but a 1k will work just fine too.

The 45/30 degree angle can be used to remove chips in the same manner as breadknifing but with the advantage of not ending up with a completely blunt edge. This allows bevel setting to be done faster after the chips are removed. I really don't think anyone should breadknife at a 90 degree angle, or if they do, then they should transition to lower angles as the chip is nearly removed.

I could not agree more. I try to demonstrate the 45/30 angle at every get together I go to. Depending on the type of repair you are doing, this method really works great on both the 220 and the 1K stones. The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

I could not agree more. I try to demonstrate the 45/30 angle at every get together I go to. Depending on the type of repair you are doing, this method really works great on both the 220 and the 1K stones. The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Have fun,

Lynn

Do you feel the amount of pressure used at the 220 level is a matter of personal preference, or should you be putting some decent pressure at this stage to remove metal at a faster rate; especially since you're not worried about sharpness/keeness at this point or more about the actual bevel shape.

Originally Posted by Lynn

The only other way I will repair these types of razors is to grind the razor on a belt or wheel, but I still maintain the 45 or 30 degree angle because it works and makes it so much easier to re-set the bevel as you indicated.

Lynn, I don't know if you saw it, but I brought a 90rpm wet grinder to the MidMo meetup. That works great for major chip removal and still allows for a relatively low angle.

Originally Posted by Utopian

Lynn, I don't know if you saw it, but I brought a 90rpm wet grinder to the MidMo meetup. That works great for major chip removal and still allows for a relatively low angle.

It is a great tool Ron!!

Originally Posted by thorxes

Do you feel the amount of pressure used at the 220 level is a matter of personal preference, or should you be putting some decent pressure at this stage to remove metal at a faster rate; especially since you're not worried about sharpness/keeness at this point or more about the actual bevel shape.

There is definitely an amount of personal preference when it comes to the pressure you use. I use a fair amount when I am doing this exercise.

Have fun,

Lynn

Originally Posted by Lynn

I use a fair amount when I am doing this exercise.

"A fair amount."

Lynn has a great way of demonstrating what he considers to be a "fair amount" of pressure. He takes his calloused knob that used to be a thumb and presses down on your poor unsuspecting thumb and proceeds to crush every corpuscle out of it.

New honers here read all the warnings about little to no pressure when honing, but this is in the later stages. When setting the bevel, using a "fair amount" of pressure is just fine!