Thread: Torx screw etc pivot pin question

Originally Posted by Seraphim

A #0 screw uses the exact same 1/16 thru hole perfectly. A beefier #2 screw requires a larger hole though...

I agree cost is not a factor for me.

I was talking more of the Torx/Slotted in the 1/8 size and I believe the others are 5/64....or perhaps the #2

The #0 Microfastener stuff we are all pretty familiar with, I still use those for mock ups ....

Glen, in taking apart older razors I learned that most of them have punched pivot holes (rather than drilled), and that many of them are not round and not perpendicular to the blade. That irritates the heck out of me, and I find it to be one of the things that cause a razor not to close properly. Therefore, I often drill out the pivot hole to make it perpendicular and round. Then I use an appropriate sized pin. If I use barrel 1/8" barrel pivots, I use then next large drill bit that I have.

Originally Posted by ChrisMeyer

Glen, in taking apart older razors I learned that most of them have punched pivot holes (rather than drilled), and that many of them are not round and not perpendicular to the blade. That irritates the heck out of me, and I find it to be one of the things that cause a razor not to close properly. Therefore, I often drill out the pivot hole to make it perpendicular and round. Then I use an appropriate sized pin. If I use barrel 1/8" barrel pivots, I use then next large drill bit that I have.

To be perfectly honest, I have NEVER had to re-drill or ream a pivot hole on any razor because of problems it caused. The argument of 'the pivot hole was punched crooked' has been argued over and over and in my opinion still holds zero merit. Problems in terms of the razor not closing properly usually stem from problems with the tang or blade itself than with the pivot hole.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

To be perfectly honest, I have NEVER had to re-drill or ream a pivot hole on any razor because of problems it caused. The argument of 'the pivot hole was punched crooked' has been argued over and over and in my opinion still holds zero merit. Problems in terms of the razor not closing properly usually stem from problems with the tang or blade itself than with the pivot hole.

True. The punched holes can look as crooked as a dog's hind leg but aren't the problem with the blade closing properly. Crooked tangs, warped tangs, scales that aren't flat or have uneven flexibility (provided a real wedge is used) all can make a razor a real b**** to set properly in scales. The only time I've ever reamed or drilled out a punch was when the edges of the punched hole were so crooked or evil looking that I thought it might cause severe pin wear after enough openings and closing. Not many were that rough, though.

I agree that the shape of the tang is a bigger factor than whether or not the pin hole is round and perpendicular. I think every razor I've taken apart has had a pin hole large enough that its shape won't matter if you are pinning it with1/16" pins. However, if you start shoving larger pin through that same hole (leaving less wiggle room), it does begin to matter whether the hole is perpendicular. Also, as I mentioned, it irritates the heck out of me if that hole is not round and perpendicular.Therefore, I often drill them out. I usually counter sink each side of the pivot hole too. To each his own...

I believe it is all in the details- what type of adjustable system vs. what type of traditional pinning vs. who does the work. Let's say person X uses adjustable pins of a certain style while persons Y and Z both pin razors traditionally. Person X's system may be better than person Y's, but person Z might do better than both of the others. I think that the disadvantages of traditional pins stated here have been exaggerated and same for the advantages of adjustables. Really, when taken care of properly, you may never need to disassemble your razor fully to 'clean' and likewise you may never need to retighten a pin. Still it's all in the details- we all treat our razors differently.