Thread: Three pin scales

I would like to add a third pin to a razor that I am restoring; a shaft pin, if you will. I've never seen a three pin razor as my collection is quite small. Typically, is there a spacer between the scales at this pin, or is it just a bare pin that the tang comes to rest on when the razor closes?

Thanks

Additionally, does anybody know what size washer can fit around a 1/8" pin?

It's your call. Some people are prefer fancy, some like plain. I like the bare brass pin.

It depends on what you have in mind...

You have to be very careful with 3rd pins as you can cause stress on the scales if done wrong...

Look at this thread---

http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...d-acrylic.html


Vintage razors have spacers, I always use them too, most people do AFAIK...If there is no spacer, then the pin will just flop around...
Seraphim IIRC did some that were for decoration only and had no pin at all kinda cool idea...

If you use a spacer, you have to fit the spacer to the razor and the scales, this is one of those things sorta like a real wedge, that separates the men from the boys so to speak... as if it is done wrong, you will either crack or warp the scales...

The first thing you need to check is if the monkey tail will clear a middle pin when rotating the blade through the scales. I've had to modify some monkey tails to allow it to pass a middle pin as the customer wanted a third pin added.

good point Ken IIRC that is why Seraphim came up with his "pretty pin" idea on a DA or GD because of the tail/pin problem...

Do you guys think that some beads would work, provided the distance was right? Threaded onto the pin of course.

Yes I think they might




I have used beads and brass tubes and even the squared brass tubes, and of course plastic tubes... One thing I have learned about razor stuff, is keep your eyes open all the time, no telling what you can use for restore stuff....

It's true. I bought some old jeans at the salvation army on the idea of denim micarta before I knew it could be done. Conveniently enough, they have brass tubes at the art store I get my walnut and brass rod from. I will have to check on the bead selection.

Most vintage razors had no third pin. The third pin became popular when flexible plastics started being used. Horn and bone and ivory weren't flexible enough to need the third pin as a stabilizer. The third pin is nice ornamental feature. Some notes on third pins.

You DO need a spacer (in my opinion). Without a spacer, it'll be sloppy as sixgun noted.

Lots of people think the spacers are blade rests, but they're not. They're spacers and stabilizers that keep the thin plastics that were commonly used from warping.

Brass rods make nice spacers. Cut them to size and drill through them the size your pinning material. Third pins don't need collars if you don't want to use them.

Sizing the spacer is best done by using a micrometer to measure the width of the tang just behind the blade where the spacer is going to go and then working the spacer to just a few thousands over that.

Longtail razors won't close (or open) with a third pin.

A true wedge is best used with three pin designs in order to get an even bow to the scales. If you use a parallel "wedge" (not a wedge at all), then the scales will usually end up parallel right up to the third pin and then bend toward the tips at the narrow pivot pin. This is particularly stressful on scales and doesn't look all that hot.

Materials like Bone, Ivory or MOP should NOT have a third pin. Plastics woods and horns, however, can be three-pinned to your heart's content but be careful with burl woods, which aren't as strong as straight grained woods even when they're plasticized.

Oh yes... one other thing. If you were so inclined, it's not particularly difficult to use some of the same material you're using for scales for the spacer. With woods, you can just cut a small rectangle, chuck it up in your drill press and then use a rasp or coarse sandpaper to round it while it turns much like you were lathing it. Once you've got it the diameter you want, you can cut if off to the right width and drill it and use it as a spacer that matches your scales.

Great input guys, thank you. Papa Bull, you made some strong points for consideration.