Thread: Color Case Hardening

After looking at some antique Colt single action revolvers, I was wondering if it would be possible to use the same color case hardening on razors. I can't recall ever seeing it on knives, so it may not work with razors. I'm not too familiar with the process, but I believe it is similar to blueing, which I have seen on razors. I think it would look great. Any ideas, comments or recommendations welcome.

I have a Bresduck Lifetime which has a blued finish on it and was thinking myself of rebluing it. The kits they sell for guns should work equally. I don't think the metal needs any special prep as long as its cleaned of all oils or surface treatments. I don't see how it would affect the edge.

Of course the real old firearms had the ultra blue finish on them but though they look neat they really weren't worth a damn and the finish rubbed of after just drawing it out of a holster a few dozen times. I think thats way so many of those old colts rusted away years ago.

Bill Ellis covers the application of liquid or paste gun blueing to a razor on his restoration CD. Highly recommended reading whether or not you decide to go whole hog into restoration or simply want to learn more about razors. Satisfied customer plug : http://www.billysblades.com/Straighr%20Razors.htm

Howdy All,

Bluing is an oxidizing process that creates a finish that is more rust resistant than untreated steel. This process relies on chemicals and sometimes heat.

Case hardening is a carbonizing process in which the steel is heated to very high temps in a partial vacuum in the presence of organic material such a bone. The organic material provides the carbon which bonds to the surface of the steel in a thin layer or case. This case is much much harder than the steel beneath.

One of the problems encountered with case hardening thin flat pieces of steel is that the steel wants to warp while going through the temperature changes.

Case hardening is indeed beautiful but I don’t think it would make for a good razor.

Then again I could be wrong.

I remain &C,
Library Guy

Thanks for the info Library Guy. After doing some research on color case hardening, I have to agree. Unless it was done during the actual forging of the razor, I think it would destroy the temper of the blade. Also I discovered it was used on low carbon steels to make them more durable. With todays quality steel it is unnecessary and it's very unlikely that any manufacturer would use that kind of steel even in a reproduction piece. Thanks for the input everyone, I appreciate you taking time to answer.

What about Parkerizing? Isn't that what they used to put on K-Bar knives and bayonettes?

Why in god name would you want to parkerise a razor?
I don’t mean to sound rude, and that statement was made in jest with a big grin… keep in mind that a straight wares in two places; the edge and the spine. So you would have a colorized blade with a shiny streak along the edge and spine.. I guess it would boil down to just visual presentation and preference, but even then a two toned blade doesn’t appeal to many people (I offer the DOVO Micarta with it’s synthetic Damascus as evidence)

I think it could be done like in the video shown in this I blogged some time back.................
You use a heat resistant paste around the part you don't want to get heated but if you do try it, I would experiment on a junk blade first, one that is broken so much, it is totally unusable. I would also keep some water handy to cool the blade right away since the heat transfers inside also.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/membe...rped-tang.html

The beautiful colors of case hardening come chemically from the individual various ingredients around the blade in an airtight container.
powdered coke, charcoal, bone, leather scraps, and other organics.
Pack the item in a airtight box with equal space around it filled with the organics and have a couple steam holes to be filled after steam stops.
Place it in a forge or kiln, or oven till the whole thing is the same shade of orange at the temperature you wanted and there appear no shadows or changes of color on the box.
The, after an hour to eight hours or more at the temperature, dump the contents into a large vat of salt water or oil at about 160ºF
If you are fortunate, a long item will not twist or break!
Much came from a couple experiments a few years back at a heat treating shop,. A lot of better information from Stan Shaw, "The last of the little messers"
~Richard

10 year old necro post. Must be a record