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  1. #11
    Member chaiguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hornm View Post
    I used the dremel with no problem. The key was to go with the center punch and to drill for only a couple seconds at a time making sure your on track needless to say a lot of start-stop-start-stop. Honestly I had more issues using the small drill press my father handed over to me. What really will help if you have to go the dremel route is to get a foot pedal switch (if you've got the corded style dremel that is). Either way with those extremely small bits on a not so even surface you'll need to choke up on the bit with the chuck to help increase the stability of the bit your using.
    This is basically the route I am going, and there seems to be some progress made, will keep you guys posted.

  2. #12
    Unofficial SRP Village Idiot
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    I just took a chunk out of the pivot pin area of a beautiful DD#1 special. I am going to epoxy the hole and see if I can save the scales. It was a beautiful razor, but the blade was scrubbing and I wanted to polish it. Just turned out wrong. I tried drilling and filing to no avail and went with a punch and by the time the pin came loos, I have chipped the scales.
    Be Careful. Its tough to get them out sometimes, but i usually am ok with a drill so long as I mark the center with a punch like someone suggested above.
    Last edited by treydampier; 11-10-2009 at 02:24 PM. Reason: Spelling

  3. #13
    Hones/Honing/Master Barber avatar1999's Avatar
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    Good luck getting those pins out! Would love to see some pictures too

  4. #14
    Senior Member hornm's Avatar
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    If you have or can get one of those spring loaded punches that have adjustable pressure that helps. One handed operation to mark the pin for drilling and then you can adjust the pressure to help "walk" out the pin. You can usually get them for under $10 U.S. (mine was like 7&change)should be pretty close to the same in CA.

  5. #15
    Member chaiguy's Avatar
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    Hurrah! It worked!

    Thanks guys--drilling was definitely the ticket. There was no way that pin was coming out just with filing and tapping. I did manage to scratch up the scales around the pivot area so I might try getting some plastic polish and buffing them out. At any rate the blade is now free and can be properly polished up independently, and I can try my hand at repinning!

  6. #16
    Member chaiguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avatar1999 View Post
    Good luck getting those pins out! Would love to see some pictures too
    I'd love to, but I'm gonna have to invest in a decent digital camera (or borrow my dad's, but I doubt he'll part with it easily). The only one I have now is from the dark ages and is best left alone.

  7. #17
    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    chaiguy,

    I have had similar troubles with bent pins; they are a right sod to get out

    I now sleeve all the pivot pins holes to stop this in the future

    Best regards

    Russ

  8. #18
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    For future reference, they sell small spherical diamond burr sets that you can use to hollow out the metal. Its not as fast as drilling, but its less risky.

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to Pete_S For This Useful Post:

    chaiguy (11-10-2009)

  10. #19
    The only straight man in Thailand ndw76's Avatar
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    I've never had any trouble with removing pins by filing and tapping since I started using a jewellers anvil. This one has a hole about the same size as most pin heads so only one side needs to be filed. Because the scales is supported all the way around the pin there is very little chance for the scales to crack or break. As for a punch I use a cheap jewellers screw driver filed to a point.
    Using this method with these tools I don't have to rely on tapping, but can hit it a bit harder if need be.

  11. #20
    Member chaiguy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhatMan View Post
    I now sleeve all the pivot pins holes to stop this in the future
    That's a great idea--what do you use to sleeve the holes?

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