Thread: Black spot on blade

I have a wedge with black staining and pitting. The razor itself looks like it could be a winner but I want to remove the black. I tried Maas - no luck. I don't have a dremel. Any other thoughts??

Sandpaper. Depends on the degree of pitting for the grit you start out with. You should have a couple sheets, always, of 400, 600, 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000. You can get it from Keith if you can't find it at your hardware store. Or look on-line. And I know that you have my cd on how to do the work, right?

http://www.handamerican.com/

Originally Posted by urleebird

Sandpaper. Depends on the degree of pitting for the grit you start out with. You should have a couple sheets, always, of 400, 600, 1,000, 1,500, and 2,000. You can get it from Keith if you can't find it at your hardware store. Or look on-line. And I know that you have my cd on how to do the work, right?

http://www.handamerican.com/

Thanks for the sandpaper tip and No I don't have the CD.

Originally Posted by RichZ

Thanks for the sandpaper tip and No I don't have the CD.

Rich,
Buy it, IMHO it is required reading if you've ever bought a razor on e-bay (or plan to) .
Ed

Hello Rich,

Before going the sandpaper route try a more aggressive paste.
Fabulustre(lapidary stores), Flex Cut Gold(woodworking stores).
Both of these should be broken down into a powder and added to your MAAS or similar compound at a 50/50 rate. I think you will be surprised at the results.

Hope this helps,

"WENOL" polishing paste (from Germany, I've only seen it once) seems to be a bit more agressive than MAAS. There are others too, "Simichrome" by Happich and "Metal Glo" is another one. They're all inexpensive, so it doesn't hurt to keep the full stable. I'm still trying to line them up in order of agressiveness though. I don't think I've ever seen a "Lapidary store" in these parts. If you do go the sandpaper route, start with the finer end of the scale, then work down until you find one that gets it. Hopefully the razor's finish is satin, brushed, or scotchbrite type finish. That will greatly reduce the amount of work in the end to get it back where it was. If it's a mirror finish and you have to sandpaper it out, you've got some work ahead of you ;-) ..............Jeff

Also don't forget the Cape Cod polishing clothes they are quite abrasive and can do the job as long as you don't mind alot of rubbing but I would try that before the sand paper route.

Before going the sandpaper route try a more aggressive paste...

"WENOL" polishing paste (from Germany, I've only seen it once) seems to be a bit more agressive than MAAS. There are others too, "Simichrome" by Happich and "Metal Glo" is another one. They're all inexpensive, so it doesn't hurt to keep the full stable.

Also don't forget the Cape Cod polishing clothes they are quite abrasive and can do the job...

All good advice. I'd like to know more about the Cape Cod cloth and where to get it. Never tried it and would like to see for myself what it does.
The word "sandpaper" scares most, and for a good reason. Usually a too aggressive grit is picked to start out with and the results get real discouraging. You certainly won't hurt the blade with a 2,000 grit or a 30 micron paper or film.
I do remember warning readers of my cd to always pick the least aggressive approach first. After you do this fix-it stuff for a while, you can look at a razor and just know if you can buff the marks out or start slapping it with 220 grit paper. I have even gone down to 150 grit for some, but if you need paper more aggressive than that, you may want to consider abandoning ship.

I got my cape cod cloths on Eboy they usually come in a can with several cloths, a buffing cloth and even gloves for protection. I've been told that several chain stores like bed, bath beyond sell them also.

Never heard of those cloths either. Cape Cod potato chips, now those I like. Never tried to polish a razor with them though.........Jeff