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Thread: hand sanding

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    Resident schizophrenic bulldog's Avatar
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    Default hand sanding

    As the title implies I'm hand sanding a blade. I was just wondering what grit progression I should use seeing as how I started at 220. Any insight would be appreciated.
    David

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    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bulldog View Post
    As the title implies I'm hand sanding a blade. I was just wondering what grit progression I should use seeing as how I started at 220. Any insight would be appreciated.
    David
    TheBaron posted some good links.

    I am curious how bad the blade is and what the
    goal is. My general thought is to use a couple
    passes of the finest grit you have to get some
    visibility into the damage.

    I am a minimalist....
    If you start with 220 you are starting with 220 grit
    scratches that you have to work out. If you start
    with 8K or finer wet/dry emery and can see that
    you are making progress no need to jump back to
    a coarser grit.

    One possible goal is to polish down and into the pits
    with a cotton tip and CrOx so it is easy to clean the blade
    and the original etching is still visible and sharp and
    the bulk of the blade is bright.

    Another goal is to grind the heck out of it and turn it
    all into a mirror finish.

    Like honing use a marker on the surface to make it
    easy to see the progress and process.

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    Resident schizophrenic bulldog's Avatar
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    Default

    It was pretty bad. I had taken a course grit dremel sanding wheel to it. I don't have the equipment to regrind it. All I have is two hands and some wet/dry sandpaper. I want a mirror finish. I'm not expecting all of the pitting to be taken out. The etching on the blade is already almost non existent. I'm not worried about it. Just the name on it.

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    Default

    In general, you can get the job done by doubling grits 220-400-800-1500, but its easier if you have some intermediate grits between those. You'll need to go 1.5k-2k plus polishing to get a mirror shine. Be forewarned, its alot of work.

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    Information Regurgitator TheBaron's Avatar
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    It is a lot of work but worth it in the end if you take your time and progress through the grits slow.

    I would also suggest being cautious on the dremel sanding. Dremels can cause an uneven grind pretty easy.

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete_S View Post
    In general, you can get the job done by doubling grits 220-400-800-1500, but its easier if you have some intermediate grits between those. You'll need to go 1.5k-2k plus polishing to get a mirror shine. Be forewarned, its alot of work.
    +1.

    If you follow my handsanding guide (the wiki link), you'll end up with a smooth mirror polished blade. The lowest grit is determined by the amount of damage on the blade. 220 is good if there isn't too much damage or if you don't mind some leftover pitting.

    And when I progress to higher grits, I usually use every grit rating I have (320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000). This sounds silly, but it is more efficient doing this than skipping grit levels. Removing 220 grit lines with 400 grit paper can take a long time. Removing them with 320 grit and them removing the 320 lines with 400 goes faster.
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    Mack mackie's Avatar
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    What we need for this kind of work is a one inch belt sander that turns really slow, maybe 50 rpm and uses belts that start at about 400 grit. I think I will work on that.

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    That's called an electric file.
    ou can buy them at many diy stores for a reasonable price.
    Black and decker makes one for example. mount it in a stand, and you're ready to go.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

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