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Thread: Pitting...

  1. #11
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    I'd just polish it up and then use a good wax on the blade, it should get into the pits and help retard any corrosion that might start there. You'll want to reapply the wax at regular intervals.

    Since its really high, just beneath the spine, you could just sand out the pitted areas only, but that will leave an ugly scooped out looking area, and you'd want to be careful not to mess up the spines geometry. It should be less prone to catching water in those areas, though.

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    santora (12-29-2009)

  3. #12
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    So the corrosion can continue? Despite my cleaning efforts. And a bluing agent, that sounds kind of what I was thinking, when I said a filler.

    And wax, that works as a preservative and I never thought of that. But the bluing agent seems be more what I was originally thinking.

    I guess I can find this bluing agent online somewhere. I'll do a search, when I get the chance, unless you have a more direct link.

    Thanks.

  4. #13
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    I see. I would say, I used the wrong word when I said filler. I would think this inhibitor is the best solution.

    Thanks again.

  5. #14
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    Default Update, some photos



    I've been honing it, with Norton water stones I bought. I have 2 double sided stones: 220/1000 and 4000/8000. I taped the spine and did 20 strokes on the 1000 stone. Looked good. Since then I've been honing it with the 4000/8000 and then strop. I've been at for a few days now. The first attempt to shave, it pulled.

    Honed and stropped some more. On my second shave it didn't pull. But the shave was similar to a Bic disposable. More honing and stropping. My third shave was better, but, still not there. More honing. More stropping.



    What do you think? there still a few scratches I have to work on. And yeah, I've been shaving with it, as you see it. With no scales. The scales were so brittle, they crack on me, when I went to remove the pins.

    This is what it looked like when I first got it. It was part of a lot of 4 razor I got on Ebay for 15 bucks.



    The next picture I took after I started this thread. You can see some of the pitting I could not get out.



    Still have a ways to go.

  6. #15
    Maq
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    Default Pitting problems are the pits

    Santora,

    I've only restored two razors but both had some pitting... On one razor the pitting was much shallower than the other...I was able to remove it all.... On the second I decided to leave about 1/3 of the pitting on the blade.... I had read other threads similar to this one and did not want to ruin the blade for shaving... I like you... found a badly rusted blade at an antique store... no scales just blade... I decided to sand untill all the pitting was gone...because I was curious like you... It's very shiny but not much good as a razor... I'd have to shorten the blade and make it a 4/8 or 7/16 blade becuase it is much too flexible and I'm sure won't shave as it is...

    However, you..... have done very well and have learned a great deal for only 15.00!! I thinks that's great... We learn so much more from making mistakes then from doing it right... I always love what Thomas Edison said when his assistant was so discouraged after 900 experiments failed while trying to discover a workable element for the light bulb.. The assistant said....." after all this time and 900 experiments we know nothing."... Thomas Edison smiled and said... "that's rediculous we know 900 things that won't work"..... My guess is that you have learned a great deal and than the next attempt at restoration will be perfection... Have fun!! Maq

  7. #16
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    Santora,
    You hadn't posted the pics when I wrote my first post... Others will give you more experienced opinions but I believe you'll have a hard time getting all that pitting off the blade... You started with a very rusty razor... the ones I've restored have a little spotting of rust here and there on the blade.... but frequently more rust on the tang and monkey tail then on the actual blade... One had a lot of pitting on the spine... that is still better then on the actual blade... At least i don't see so much on the edge.... Let others give their opinion ... but I don't think you can remove it all without designing a completely different razor ... like one of your previous respondents talked about... so I'd maybe remove a little more.... polish it up and use it as a personal shaver and remember your first very hard restore!!! You picked a blade with a lot of rust..... I was lucky enough to ask a few people... Hey is this ok for a first restore?? No.. no... no....that's way to much rust.....otherwise I'd have attempted one just like that.... I thoght that was the idea....remove the rust and make it shiny..... Maq

  8. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maq View Post
    Santora,
    You hadn't posted the pics when I wrote my first post... Others will give you more experienced opinions but I believe you'll have a hard time getting all that pitting off the blade...
    At the time you asked, I only had that picture I took before I worked on it. The other pictures I took, after I started this thread and you requested.

    But no, there is no pitting around the bevel. It's all on the face. And from all the honing, I've got a mirror finish on that edge.

    But I still only get a shave no better than a Bic disposable. I've been at it for days, now. Restoration is easy compared to honing.

    That's a whole other ball game. I'm going to have to look though all those honing videos again, and re-read some things. There's obviously something, I missed.

    Other than that, I am putting together a nice collection of razors, including a Boker extra hollow ground. And I've got a few other practice blades, which I might be able to make something out of.

    I'll be showing them off soon. Especially the Boker. That blade is in beautiful shape but one of the scales is crack at the pin. The scale with the tree is intact.

    Thanks for the input.

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