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  1. #1
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    Default White water spots on blade

    Can anyone tell me about their experience in how to remove white spots from a newly cleaned blade (water spots perhaps)? They really mar an otherwise great finish.

    I am also trying to solve another mystery...how can buffing carbon steel with a sisal wheel and emery compound leave a better polished finish than either white, tripoli, green, or blue compound on a spiral or loose buff?

    Thanks for all the help

  2. #2
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
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    I cant advise on the buffing as I have never done it. Hopefully an experienced member will chime in with some advice!

    In terms of the spots on the blade, the best way to get these off is MAAS (or Flitz) and a Q-Tip.

    Good luck!

  3. #3
      Lynn's Avatar
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    Actually, if the water spots have not turned into active rust, then using the green on a wheel should get them out. Maybe even the white. If you have any gold wash around the stain, it will probably be bye bye. To me, a sewn cotton wheel will always shine a razor better than using a sisal wheel which is apt to leave some scratch marks.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

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    jtischler (02-17-2010)

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    The Shell Whisperer Maximilian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtischler View Post
    Can anyone tell me about their experience in how to remove white spots from a newly cleaned blade (water spots perhaps)? They really mar an otherwise great finish.

    I am also trying to solve another mystery...how can buffing carbon steel with a sisal wheel and emery compound leave a better polished finish than either white, tripoli, green, or blue compound on a spiral or loose buff?

    Thanks for all the help

    The best finishing for your carbon or ss blade is green rouge with a cotton wheel. (spiral sewn and/or loose) Tripoli is not used for steel, most whites come before the green and blue has never done anything for me that warrants a wow factor on steel. A good quality green rouge is what you're looking for.

    I have no clue why your black/sisal gives a better finish compared then the rest. Are you using the rest of your compounds on sisal too? If so then there lays your answer. Tripoli will mar your finish, Try using the white first followed by green rouge. (each on their own dedicated cotton wheel off course) after black on sisal.

    As to those white spots. They should be able to disappear in a split second with your white or green rouge on cotton if we're talking water spots. Maas polish should work too but can demand a bit more rubbing.

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    Nphocus (04-19-2011)

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    Thanks Lynn, I will give it a try with the green. I also wanted to say a belated "thank you" for creating this forum and taking a leading role in bringing back the art of wet shaving. Much to my wife's chagrin, I am now a full-bore enthusiast and constantly have to understate the amount of time and money I spend on this wonderful hobby. I have been a collector and seller of antiquities (coins, statues, rare documents, etc.) for years. Vintage shaving paraphanalia is one of the few true collectibles that can be affordable to almost anyone.

    Real men wet shave!

    Thanks again!

  8. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maximilian View Post
    The best finishing for your carbon or ss blade is green rouge with a cotton wheel. (spiral sewn and/or loose) Tripoli is not used for steel, most whites come before the green and blue has never done anything for me that warrants a wow factor on steel. A good quality green rouge is what you're looking for.

    I have no clue why your black/sisal gives a better finish compared then the rest. Are you using the rest of your compounds on sisal too? If so then there lays your answer. Tripoli will mar your finish, Try using the white first followed by green rouge. (each on their own dedicated cotton wheel off course) after black on sisal.

    As to those white spots. They should be able to disappear in a split second with your white or green rouge on cotton if we're talking water spots. Maas polish should work too but can demand a bit more rubbing.
    Max,

    I am only using the Emery on the Sisal wheel. White is on a cotton buff, blue is on a loose cotton wheel. I got the compounds from Caswell, so they are pretty good stuff. I did buy the green, so I will try that. I noticed that the sisal seems to do it's best work on the tang when I really put a lot of pressure on the piece against the wheel. I recently ordered some more buffs from Caswell, along with the full line of greaseless compounds. I want to see what I can do to remove some corrosion and deep scratches from some of the better blades.

    Thanks for your wisdom!

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    The Shell Whisperer Maximilian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jtischler View Post
    Max,

    when I really put a lot of pressure on the piece against the wheel.
    Emery and sisal tends to do that, correct but the danger with pressure will be heat so always be careful. Never use pressure on the hollow part especially towards the edge with a sisal. It will turn blue/brown before you know it, especially with sisal.

    Make sure to use both the cutting and final coloring technique with your cotton wheel and green rouge to give that final shine. And most important always make sure to clean your blade when going from one compound to the next as to not contaminate the wheels with a previous grit.

    Keep us updated.

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    If you have no way to buff then MAAS works well but sometimes does require a fair amount of rubbing.

    Chris

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