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Thread: Pics of My First Restore!
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02-22-2010, 08:12 PM #11
..hhhmmm.... Wish I'd known that yesterday.......:-)
After each coat the surface looked so rough i was scared to keep going, but it was so thin that as soon as i sanded it, some parts would wear through right away...
I guess the idea is to build a layer thick enough to be sanded?
Do you think the wood is protected enough as is or should i treat it further, say with a wax? I'm not very anxious to take it apart again..... which I'd have to do to CA it again (I was lucky, i think, in that I managed NOT to glue myself to anything, except at one point I'd glued the cap to my own lip.... don't ask)
Thanks for all the great compliments!
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02-22-2010, 08:22 PM #12
Sorry for the double post: I have no idea how to quote 2 posts in one reply....
For the Dremel all I used was the "dremel" brand polishing compound that comes in a little .5 oz or so size, it's red and kind of greasy. I have no idea what's in it. The blade was almost already there anyways, just from sanding up to 2000 gr. I made sure to keep my speed waaayy down and to make sure that the wheel was always rotating towards the blade edge; I've read more than one post where someone has caught the blade with their dremel and wrecked their blade. (SWMBO would'a never let me live it down if I'd wrecked it, I think she figures I've gone nuts!)
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02-22-2010, 08:25 PM #13
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02-23-2010, 01:11 AM #14
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Thanked: 14I've found that the Renaissance wax doesn't do much for the ebony but shine it up. It protects is superficially but ebony is so dense that is doesn't really get into the wood very well.
Ebony wood is really dense so you can get it to a nice shine w/o any treatment. If you treat it with any type of oil, you will need to dilute to prob 50:50 to get it to soak into the grain of the wood.
*Personally I'm sort of a purist, at least when it comes to working with natural materials, so I would only treat it with natural oils such as linseed, poppy seed, safflower seed, walnut, soybean, oiticica. Tung oil is my favorite as you can get a dark tung oil which is treated with a non-toxic naturally occurring resinous hydrocarbon for color or a pure tung oil, as it dries hard and brings out the grains. You can also re-apply tung oil years down the road to touch it up if it starts to fade.
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02-23-2010, 01:18 AM #15
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Thanked: 431A success indeed.
Looks great.
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02-23-2010, 01:33 AM #16
Impressive! Very, very nice. I really like the design of your scales -- so much so that I think I'm gonna try something similar with the next set I do.
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02-23-2010, 01:34 AM #17
Doh! I can be so impatient I'm my own worst enemy......
Is it too late to apply tung oil? Will the CA, even though it's sanded off, prevent the tung oil from penetrating? I didn't clean the ebony with acetone so maybe all is not lost.......
I'm about to run out to HomeDepot right now to get some. Someone stop me if I'm about to waste even more money!
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02-24-2010, 06:06 AM #18
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Thanked: 1936I havent done anything to my ebony scales other than a little Renaissance wax FWIW...
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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02-24-2010, 06:35 AM #19
You're fine as far as finish is concerned.
I prefer an oil finish to a coating for ebony (and most other woods). Covering up the lovely grain with CA is almost a sin. You might as well use black plastic.
You shouldn't have any problem applying a coat of oil now. I use CA to temporarily attach templates to scales. I also use it to fill defects. The oil actually helps the CA repairs blend into the wood. You might still be able to see small shiny spots where the CA filled the pores, but it's very hard to notice.
I don't bother to dilute the oil when finishing woods that resist penetration. My reasoning is that these woods are naturally oily and don't really need the oil for durability. It just helps improve the appearance (though this is subjective).
Phillip
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02-24-2010, 07:34 AM #20
Wow great job! Absolutely beautiful!