Thread: suggestions for polishing/polishing compounds?

Hello all - I've been working on hand sanding a few blades, but unfortunately even after 2000-grit sandpaper I'm still showing a bit of light scratch lines in some places that dont look so hot. I just read through the article in the wiki, and it mentions using a dremel, polishing wheel, and polishing compounds after the sandpaper, but doesnt go into detail about them. I dont have a dremel or polishing wheel, though I suppose if its absolutely necessary I'll have to get one.

I do have MAAS metal polisher, Simichrome metal polisher, and some wonder-stuff called Micro-Gloss, made by the same people who make Micromesh, an amazing universal polishing compound rated at 1 micron which works on everything, from plastic,horn, wood, to metal. Do I just need to go at it a bunch of times with those polishing compounds, or is there some other kind needed here? What can I do to substitute for not having a Dremel and polishing wheel? I realize I might not be able to get it as perfect as I could with the machine-help, and I'm okay with that for now.

Thanks for your help.

Yep, dremel or buffer (best results w/ less time) is what you need to finish off your blade. The dremel would be more useful for other things, just don't get a battery powered one.

thanks fo the advice - any recs on buying a dremel? i'm not going to be using it *real* heavily for now, so just a reasonable intro-level for now. do I need to buy anything particular as far as endings/wheels/buffing surfaces? thanks.

If you buy the buffing / polishing kit (I don't have the part number handy) and a bunch of felt wheels (part # 414) that will cover what you need to buff and polish blades.

One other thing to watch out for when sanding: make absolutely sure that all of the scratches from the previous grit sandpaper are gone before moving on to the next grit. I've had several times where I've had to drop back a grit or two to get a deeper scratch that I missed. If you ignore those deeper scratches they will stick with you all the way to the end, and won't buff out.

Oh, and do some reading or watch videos on how to safely use a dremel on your blades. It only takes a minor slip-up to destroy a blade or possibly take off a finger.

The first blade I ever used a dremel on is now at the bottom of the landfill.

I hand sanded my first blade over a few months. It took a very long time and doesn't look perfect but I learned a ton of info by doing it.

one thing I found is using more grits for example instead of going from 120 to 220 go 120 to 180 and then to 220.

I use the dremel 4000 series they sell at Home Depot and like it just fine.

I do not think dremels should be used for sanding at all. I almost damaged my blade trying to do some sanding with it and NEVER again.

Buy a bunch of felt wheels from Widget Supply of ebay and some Turtle Wax Premium Rubbing Compound and Maas. This really helps take it to that next level. Make sure you get a bunch of those felt wheels because they dirty up fast. I think I used about 5-6 for my first blade.

I still have some scratches in it, but I'm satisfied because I learned a ton of stuff doing it and will take that info on to the next blade.

Whoa!!!! Before you get a dremel you really need to consider your abilities using it! One slip and the chuck going at 10,000 RPMs will RUIN your razor! IME using a dremel is almost more trouble than it's worth because of these two reasons. (I'm not even crazy about working on scales with a dremel.)

I had the same problem with scratch marks and I found the answer using hand sanding. Read here. Bottom line, consider how light a touch you're using, how well you took out lower grit scratches before moving up, and if the "levels" you're using are as gradual as possible.

Second, read this thread about using a vibratory tumbler. If I had to choose between investing in a tumbler or a dremel for restoring razors, the tumbler would be my first choice. The tumbler will take a while, but you will be able to go from a rugged looking piece of metal to a cleaned and shiny razor ready for the hones without any skill or elbow grease. And you can't accidentally grind a chip into the edge with a tumbler like you can with a dremel.

If you're a pro with a dremel then maybe you can go ahead an use it, but IMHO it's not the best way to sand a razor, especially for a newbie.

thanks, bingo bango (hilarious avatar by the way) - wel that sure does complicate things. I was definitely thinking that if I was going to use the dremel I should get or make one of those little "safety jigs" that holds the razor. presumably if I had one of those I would be fairly safe. I cant say I'm a "pro" with a dremel as I've never had one, but I'm fairly - not super - handy with such things. I have some rinkydink razors I could sacrifice to the learning curve, if that's all that's necessary..... I like that the dremel can be used for other things, a bit more versatile.

also, about the tumbler - do I have to get a pretty large one to fit the razor? And will I have to detach the razor rom the scales in order to put it in? any advice on which tumbler? e.g.: Amazon.com: Hornady M2 Case Tumbler 110 Volt: Sports & Outdoors or NEW VIBRATORY METAL JEWELRY ROCK CASE TUMBLER POLISHER : eBay Motors (item 330407362773 end time Feb-28-10 11:09:20 PST).

one other thing - havent finished reading glen's thread (Really long!) but he estimates this takes to a similar place as 2K grit sandpapper - I was thinking that the dremel was already for everything ABOVE 2K, so do I still need something for that last stage beyond the vibratory tumbler?

Those tumblers are on the right track - just a matter of price now.

The MEDIA and the LOAD will determine the finish. You'll have to read the whole thing. I can get a mirror polish with corn cob and Turtle Wax after going up to 2K SP. Walnut and wax can get the heavy rust I think, but don't quote me. Someone did a wiki that cut it down to a smaller format. It might be helpful. See Here. I think you might have to take the razor out of the scales. Again, check the thread first. If you decide to unpin the razor, you'll need some more materials and gear and that's another discussion, but the wiki and available threads will answer that easy.

Back to the dremel, you have to use a light touch and it's easy for it to "get away from you." If you're finishing up the polish and put a ding in the razor, get ready to start all over. I was using the dremel for just that and felt it wobble once then decided it was tumbler time.

Originally Posted by Mijbil

Hello all - I've been working on hand sanding a few blades, but unfortunately even after 2000-grit sandpaper I'm still showing a bit of light scratch lines in some places that dont look so hot. I just read through the article in the wiki, and it mentions using a dremel, polishing wheel, and polishing compounds after the sandpaper, but doesnt go into detail about them. I dont have a dremel or polishing wheel, though I suppose if its absolutely necessary I'll have to get one.

I do have MAAS metal polisher, Simichrome metal polisher, and some wonder-stuff called Micro-Gloss, made by the same people who make Micromesh, an amazing universal polishing compound rated at 1 micron which works on everything, from plastic,horn, wood, to metal. Do I just need to go at it a bunch of times with those polishing compounds, or is there some other kind needed here? What can I do to substitute for not having a Dremel and polishing wheel? I realize I might not be able to get it as perfect as I could with the machine-help, and I'm okay with that for now.

Thanks for your help.

One no power solution is Simichrome or other polish and a measured folded
patch of brown paper or news print.

Apply a small amount of polish and then fold the paper over the
back and pinch it while pulling from heal to toe watching to keep
your fingers clear of the sharp edge.