Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Senior Member fpatton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    105
    Thanked: 15

    Default First scales project (lots of pics)

    A few weeks ago, I picked up an old Shumate 256 at a local antique store. The scales were very cheap plastic replacements, and I figured this would be a good razor to try to re-scale. I didn't have any sentimental attachment to the blade, and could do the project without worrying that I might ruin something.

    I happened to have a pile of scrap Bubinga in my garage, so I started cutting, planing, sanding, and shaping. Here's the result.













    The wedge is poplar. I made some washers to go between the scales and the blade out of 0.002" brass shim stock. The pins are 3/32" brass.

    I took a small block of aluminum and carved a divot out with the Dremel to receive the bottom side of the pin while I peened the top. As you can see, my peening technique leaves a lot to be desired, but that will come with practice. I also didn't use washers on the outside of the scales. I figured I would just ding them up, and I kind of like the cleaner look.

    I learned something about wedges from this - you can definitely make a wedge with too steep an angle! For my next set, the wedge will be thinner and shallower.

    The finish is plain tung oil from Homer Formby. It worked well on a rosewood drum shell I was working on, and it makes a very nice matte finish here, I think. I've got about 10 coats, with sanding and steel wool in between each coat.

    I think I would also make a slightly shallower curve next time, to make holding the blade during stropping easier.

    All in all, I think it's an okay start. Lots of good lessons. On to the next one!

    Fred

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to fpatton For This Useful Post:

    shutterbug (03-02-2010)

  3. #2
    The Shell Whisperer Maximilian's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Sin City
    Posts
    5,597
    Thanked: 3384

    Default

    Congrats on your first mission. It turned out really nice. You even managed to pull a tapered wedge for your first project. Very nice finish on the wood too. Way to go. It will only get better. Thanks for sharing.

    əˌfisyəˈnädō | pərˈfekSH(ə)nəst | eS'prəSSo | düvəl ləvər

  4. #3
    Senior Member BHChieftain's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    San Jose, CA, USA
    Posts
    509
    Thanked: 108

    Default

    Nice job!!!!

    -Chief

  5. #4
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
    Posts
    7,285
    Thanked: 1936
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    Nice and clean job!
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  6. #5
    Senior Member sffone's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Baton Rouge, La.
    Posts
    357
    Thanked: 93

    Default

    Very, very nice. I especially like the finish.

  7. #6
    Senior Member shutterbug's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Guthrie, Oklahoma
    Posts
    419
    Thanked: 217

    Default

    Excellent job on your first project!!
    welcome to the club.

  8. #7
    Member furir's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Örebro, Sweden
    Posts
    90
    Thanked: 14

    Default

    Damn you shutterbug for making so nice scales. I've been looking at your custom scales and I have to say that you can make me a pair any day of the year. Your scales looks great. And fpatton, your scales are nice too.
    Last edited by furir; 03-02-2010 at 04:29 PM.

  9. #8
    26. Hatter Engaging in Rhetoric Mijbil's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    246
    Thanked: 30

    Default tung oil.

    yes, very nice - inspiring for a first go.

    one note, tho: Formby's tung oil is not "plain tung oil." I actually *love* Formby's "tung oil" and after using it think, for most things, its crazy to go back to a regular (urethane) varnish. But Formby's is a tung oil / urethane mix, with the emphasis on the urethane. You can use pure tung oil - which behaves *very* differently as it lacks the urethane resin that really hardens into a solid surface, though I think the best stuff out there, liquid magic for wood, is the stuff from Sutherland Welles, which is *Real* tung oil, polymerized (basiccally just means brought to a high heat to increase lustre and reduce drying time - plain tung oil can take up to a week to dry between coats). Sorry if this is being picky, but when I learned all this stuff I was very angry at the misinformation of companies like Formby's when it comes to Tung oil. If only there were a Tung Oil lobby to force a clean-up of the mess.

  10. #9
    Senior Member fpatton's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    105
    Thanked: 15

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mijbil View Post
    yes, very nice - inspiring for a first go.

    one note, tho: Formby's tung oil is not "plain tung oil." I actually *love* Formby's "tung oil" and after using it think, for most things, its crazy to go back to a regular (urethane) varnish. But Formby's is a tung oil / urethane mix, with the emphasis on the urethane.
    Quite right, of course. "Plain" was an editorial error on my part. It's really "Tung Oil Finish", which means it also has some other additives.

    I've been a fan of Formby's stuff for a long time, but this is the first time I've used this particular product. It was recommended to me by the local hardwood retailer for use on a rosewood drum shell, which it also looked great on.

    Fred

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •