Thread: Puma project

Hello everyone,

Just thought I would post a few pics and ask a few questions about two restores im working on - my first ones I might add - A Puma Special 89 and an unspecified Bengall razor.

Firstly the puma, It was in reasonable condition when first obtained, no obvious hone wear and a nice edge, but it did have an ugly melted area right by the puma logo on the near scale. I sanded it flat on the face and matched the bevel on the side - still needs polishing but I think its fair to say its pretty impossible to spot now!. My main concern for restoring this razor is the rust on and around the satin 'Puma Special' etching on the face of the blade - any removal ideas that preserve the etch would be appreciated??

Another nice thing about the puma - as original sticker!

As for the Bengall, Ive been sanding away for hours today, and as you can see its still quite far away from 'restored' but considering rust once essentially covered it in its entirety I would say its well on the way, though some of the pitting is so deep it will have to stay. One curious thing I found while disassembling this razor however - a lead wedge at the toe of the grip - does anyone know if this is original for such a Bengall? (the blade has Cadman & sons stamp on the reverse of the neck)

Would appreciate any insights.

Thanks!

One more question does anyone use stainless steel when re-pinning razors? I have access to 1.6mm (approx 1/16") Stainless welding rod. Would it be too hard to 'mushroom' when assembling?

Others would know better than me, but I'm pretty sure stainless steel should be fine. With a good ball peen hammer you should be able to bang it down as necessary. Nickel or brass would work, too.

Originally Posted by EisenFaust

One more question does anyone use stainless steel when re-pinning razors? I have access to 1.6mm (approx 1/16") Stainless welding rod. Would it be too hard to 'mushroom' when assembling?

Brass or nickel silver are standard materials for pinning. SS would be too hard and you'd probably crack your scales before you got the thing tightened up. ....IMHO....

Originally Posted by EisenFaust

Hello everyone,

Just thought I would post a few pics and ask a few questions about two restores im working on - my first ones I might add - A Puma Special 89 and an unspecified Bengall razor.

Firstly the puma, It was in reasonable condition when first obtained, no obvious hone wear and a nice edge, but it did have an ugly melted area right by the puma logo on the near scale. I sanded it flat on the face and matched the bevel on the side - still needs polishing but I think its fair to say its pretty impossible to spot now!. My main concern for restoring this razor is the rust on and around the satin 'Puma Special' etching on the face of the blade - any removal ideas that preserve the etch would be appreciated??

A tumbler is the best tool I have found for this, but honestly the rule is "The pitting will always be just deeper than the etching"

Another nice thing about the puma - as original sticker!

As for the Bengall, Ive been sanding away for hours today, and as you can see its still quite far away from 'restored' but considering rust once essentially covered it in its entirety I would say its well on the way, though some of the pitting is so deep it will have to stay. One curious thing I found while disassembling this razor however - a lead wedge at the toe of the grip - does anyone know if this is original for such a Bengall? (the blade has Cadman & sons stamp on the reverse of the neck)

You have some deep pitting there, Have you cut a bevel yet to check the edge??? At some point there comes a trade off between metal removal ,time , and a reasonably nice look...

Yes the lead wedge is quite common


Would appreciate any insights.

Thanks!

Check the Workshop Sticky here for more tips... http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

Good luck

Originally Posted by EisenFaust

One more question does anyone use stainless steel when re-pinning razors? I have access to 1.6mm (approx 1/16") Stainless welding rod. Would it be too hard to 'mushroom' when assembling?

Stainless steel is really hard so making pins from it might be very difficult. Even if you heated it red it wont soften as much as brass etc.
If you have stainless welding rods easily available why not try first if that works.

Stainless steel welding rods are stainless steel, sometimes coated with a flux or containing a flux core. Stainless steel, no matter what kind, will have a carbon content >.1% So if your going to use them, I would use a peening hammer that is harder that the stainless steel rod you are using.

That's the only way you are going to get it done without messing up your hammer and your new pin.

Using anything on the Puma blade like metal polish will remove the etching. You can try a single edge disposable razor blade like the ones used to remove stickers and in box cutters to scrape the rust off but use care or avoid the etching. Where there is no etching you can use a little nass on a tooth pick and rub away. Be careful not to get the Maas on the etching when you wipe it off. Otherwise, just soap and water. Lynn says to soak a blade in oil after restoring so the rust doesn't return. You can try that or give a good coating of Tuf Glide.

As for the SS pins, brass and nickel silver are preferred due to their softness. Nickel silver is also used in braising. Use the ss if you like but it may take a lot more wacks than usual. Glen suggests practicing peening using popsicle sticks. That would be a good idea here as well.

Good luck.

Use nickle silver rods, you can get them at the welding supply.

Hi all,

Thought I would update on the Bengall I was working on, I managed to find some NiAg (at least I think it is - the guy I got it from said it was 'something' and 30% silver, but the colour and consistancy match the old pins I am replacing so im relatively sure.) My 'mushrooms' chipped a little but when I was spreading the pins, so I'll definately practice before trying to re-pin anything I want pristine i.e the Puma.

So the Bengall may not be a looker with its super deep pits (that had to stay to avoid weakening the blade) but it takes a good straight bevel so it should sharpen up nicely and be a nice 'hack'

p.s the little pic from the original seller did the blade a big favor really - the reverse was literally solid with thick lumpy rust and black areas - so I cant really complain about her left-over warts!

Thanks for all the suggestions and comments.