Thread: Rotary tool?

Alright, so I spent a an hour or so wandering around Home Depot today (looking very lost I'm sure). I came out with some basic Norton sandpaper up to 400 grit (not sure what a good finishing grit is, but according to Norton this is it), six paint sticks and a little coping saw with a few replacement blades since I'm sure I'll find a way to ruin at least the first one. I didn't know these little saws existed until shooter mentioned them, but they look like they're the perfect tool for getting a pretty accurate rough cut for scale blanks! Cutting out the blanks is one of the things I couldn't figure out how I'd do without some sort of jig-saw type tool, so its very nice to find there's a convenient $8 solution out there!

I have a little vintage French folding knife too, that should make a very nice carving knife (much thanks to some time on the bbw/coti combo.) I did, however forget to get a vice as it turns out. I'll have to try and dig something up or go back out and get one. I know chisels were mentioned too, but I don't even know where to begin there. Guess I have more homework to do.

I did try working the paint sticks a little already and these things seem awful prone to splintering. I can't complain for the price though, and I guess their finicky nature only makes them better for learning on. Cutting across the grain at an angle (45 degrees to the grain or so) with the knife produces a nice smooth cut, but cutting anywhere near with the grain causes it to splinter all over the place. I guess that's lesson one for carving then, huh? The coping saw on the other hand splinters this stuff all over the place, so I'll have to figure out how to make that work.

Anyways, I'm going to try and see how far I can get by hand tomorrow or so. I still don't know how I'll do pin holes, maybe the drill I can use will suffice, but I do want to try and learn things the hand way. That means the rotary will wait until I really know what I need and how I can use it. It still sounds like a very useful thing to have and I'll be getting one eventually. Maybe sooner rather that later if it becomes necessary for the pin holes after all (even if that's just a convenient excuse...). Anyhow, thanks for all the advice and guidance here, as always! I really appreciate it, you guys are always incredibly helpful!

There are quite a few guys here that use a regular hand drill to drill pin holes. Just keep the bit straight...the left and right are easy, it's the fore and aft that are more difficult to judge. Using whatever you have feeds the imagination and it's amazing what some guys can come up with.

BTW, if you had a vice for the scales, you could control the amount of pressure you are putting on the coping saw, thus less tearing. Most of us cut a little "off the line" and sand to finish dimensions. Keep in mind that you are more than likely working with softwood, pine more than likely, which is why a fresh blade bites a little harder & deeper. After this set, you may consider a hardwood that is 1/8" thick.

On the sandpaper, up to 400 grit is good for the shaping, but you will need to visit a automotive parts place like Auto Zone or O'Reillys for some finer sanding grits when you start to apply your finishes. I personally use some 220, lots of 400, some 600, lots of 1000, some 1500 & occasionally some 2000. I have several sanding blocks that I can use 1/4 sheet with made of some scrap pine, I'll shape them to where I can use them on the top radius where the razor will enter the scales so that I don't have a wavy (unless intended) line.

I look forward to hearing how your scales advance. Time to start considering a finish as well...

I have a similar rotary tool. I like it better than a regular dremel or speed control knob. Only thing I hardly use it.

For coping saw use of a bench pin is impossible to beat. look here if you need to know what it is. Basic Silversmithing - manual of techniques & tools

For me a file is better than sandpaper. Eventually I get to needing some sandpaper but not much. I am used to working without a vise. At times it would be nice to have one, i have a couple, but like the dremel not used much.

I have a bench top drill press but can do better or at least just as well and faster without it. Using an "egg-beater" drill I think it is easier to keep things straight than a brace or cordless/electric drill motor. Typically I lay out on both sides while the blank is rectangular and true. Drill in from both sides undersize and correct any error with a small reamer-like gimlet. usually my hole connects in the center of scales blank so the gimlet is a failsafe extra step. Then the rest of the shape is set by the pivot hole.

Another underused hand tool for this sort of work is the scraper. Card scraper. Scraping plane. probably more to be said .....

So, it took me a while to get around to this project and even longer to get around to posting about it! Here's what I've done with just a coping saw, some paint sticks, my very own home-made sanding block (seen below) and some sand paper (220-330 for shaping, 400, 600, 1500 to smooth it up):





Sorry about the photo quality there, but they're going on this guy:


So, the rotary tool was not at all necessary after all! I did have to borrow a drill for the pin holes however. It was surprisingly easy to do, and I'm very pleased with how it came out. Though, I did actually find an old adjustable speed rotary in my grandmother's garage that I've borrowed for future use, but thats another story.

For pinning I've got my washers, 1/16 in brass rod, peen hammer, brass and aluminum tubing for sleeving all ready to go. I just need to finish the scales and we're good to go. I've got several cans of different finish in the garage that I've tested and I think I have one that should work alright enough. I can't decide if I want to leave the wood as is or try to stain it however. I've been playing with whatever I can find (food coloring, etc.) to see if I can get any decent results.

Also, I've seen people using anvils or even hammers with little divots put into them for pinning. Is this necessary and if so how would you go about putting those in and in what size? Thanks for the help again guys, hopefully I should have this all finished up soon.

That looks awesome. Great work. How did the coping saw work on the paint sticks. I thought about using one for my paint stick scales, but thought the wood would just splinter.

Its true, the stuff splinters like mad. I found the trick was make sure there was plenty of support right next to where I was cutting, and to just let the saw do the work and not try and push my way through the wood. This meant I would hold it down firmly and cut just near where the edge of the work bench where I was holding it. One of the 'bench pins' someone mentioned seems like it would have been ideal for the job. Next up I'll have to try some hardwood of some sort though! I was thinking walnut or purpleheart but we'll see. Have to finish these first after all!

Originally Posted by Patches

I was thinking walnut or purpleheart but we'll see. Have to finish these first after all!

Walnut would be a good choice. It is a far more attractive AND easier to work wood than the yellow pine or poplar paint sticks are made from... although depending on where you got them, they could be hard or soft maple...

Anyway, walnut is great. In fact, if you want a blank to try, PM me. I've got a few.