Results 1 to 10 of 10
Thread: Hey everybody!
-
03-12-2010, 10:54 PM #1
Hey everybody!
So I am new to restoring straight razor but I am not new to using a straight razor. That being said, I bought two razors but I am want to make sure I restore them right.
One is a "Griffon" and the other is a "KROPP."
I read somewhere that you can use 'scrubbing bubbles'. Not sure if it is a good idea.
Also do I need to look into taking my razors apart? And can you use a soapstone for honing?
I am on a budget so any tip to help I would appreciate. I love to DIY so no issues there. Even though I am lady I know my tools I grew up in grandpa workshop.
Someone mentioned I use a polish (Flitz or Maas metal polish) but I read somewhere to don't use a polish. As far as the scales go they are fine I am not look for fancy (no offense to anybody) at the time later on I may. I read I could sand and I believe polish not sure.
All I am looking for is help and getting my razor clean, nice, and hopefully to use them.
I tried to attach the pictures but for some reason or another I was unable to so just check out my profile pictures. Sorry.
ThanksLast edited by amber62509; 03-12-2010 at 11:11 PM.
-
03-13-2010, 01:30 AM #2
Hello Amber, welcome to SRP. You will find a lot of information on using and restoring razors in the SRP Wiki here. When I recieve a used razor if the inside of the scales (handlles) have dirt I use scrubbing bubbles and q-tips to clean inside.. I flatten the q-tip ends with a hammer so that they fit into the scales. A soft toothbrush is good too and if you want to get around the pivot without taking the razor apart dental floss works well.
Metal polish on a paper towel is good. Semichrome, Flitz and Maas for example. If the blade has gold on it the polish will take it off so be careful in that case. You can also use the polish and a paper towel on the scales.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to JimmyHAD For This Useful Post:
amber62509 (03-14-2010)
-
03-13-2010, 06:45 PM #3
-
The Following User Says Thank You to mackie For This Useful Post:
amber62509 (03-14-2010)
-
03-15-2010, 06:03 AM #4
Excellent advice so far… You only need some metal polish and you would be surprised at the difference in just a few minutes.
Maybe you read somewhere the advice "not to polish' from collectors who are sometimes opposed to polishing anything "vintage", and prefer to see the aged patina on the steel. It is also possible the advise was in regard to polish like Brasso or others that will do almost nothing to the hardened steel of a good straight razor, those were designed for softer metals like Brass, Aluminum or Silver. However polish such as MAAS, Flitz or Simichrome will polish steel.
As mentioned, the Wiki has quite a bit of information, but I will only add…. If you could also remove a lot of that tarnish with wet/dry sandpaper of say about 800 to 1000 grit (available at the auto parts store) and relay brighten it up a bit, then use the above mentioned to and polish to a nice shine with paper towel…
Be mindful of the edge as you sand, because while doing so you may unknowingly sharpen the previously dull edge and give yourself a hell-of-a-nasty cut.
Don’t sand the part near the edge too much as you could thin the blade and make to too flexible… it may not shave well in that condition, and is irreversible.
If you still have access to Grandpa’s workshop then you’ve got a head start, you may take it apart with a drill press. The rivet is a simple pin and lock-washer; if you carefully drill out the mushroomed part of the pin the with a new (sharp) 1/16 inch bit, the lock-washer may “pop” out and you can drift the pin out the other side. But go slow, those scales (handles) are very brittle and can brake under stress.
After cleaning, putting it back together again is another story, but here are countless posts and articles in the Wili about re-pinning a razor so give the Wili a good read-through.
Don’t rush, take your time, all of us had to start somewhere…
Hope this helps
-
The Following User Says Thank You to smythe For This Useful Post:
amber62509 (03-19-2010)
-
03-19-2010, 05:28 AM #5
Thanxs everybody for the information and knowledge. My razors are coming along. The small one came through than the larger one when it came to shining them. I read somewhere to use turtle compound and it worked magic on the small. Now I am trying to work on stropping which ya'll make is seem so easy. I know with practice makes it prefect. Well thanxs everybody and every second I am with my razors I feel like a kid in a candy store. lol
-
03-20-2010, 05:11 PM #6
Well... you didn't mention but... if you've not already done so, you may want to hone it first before stropping.
-
03-20-2010, 05:39 PM #7
You came to the right place! Alot of great information here! Like they said before me check out the WIKI alot of great information in there and probably most of your questions will be ansewered there. Im not so sure about scrubbing bubbles
-
03-21-2010, 01:47 PM #8
- Join Date
- May 2005
- Location
- Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
- Posts
- 8,023
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 2209Sorry,soapstone is not suitable for honing a razor.
Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
-
03-21-2010, 02:12 PM #9
scrubbing bubbles and clear acrylic.
I used scrubbing bubbles on a Clear yellow acrylic scaled Gold bug razor. The scrubbing bubbles caused the scales to haze up and are now opaque vs clear like they used to be.
-
03-21-2010, 11:05 PM #10
Acrylic can't come anywhere close to alcohol or it will craze. I'm not sure if that might have been the cause.