Thread: The "Wedge" ???

Ok, Im on my 3rd restore and the wedge has me a little confused. On all my razors with the origanal scales the wedge is tappered or shapped like a shim going from thin to thick. I also have been looking through the "workshop" and "custom builds and restorations" and noticed some of the "wedges" are wedged shaped and some are not. So on all 3 of my restorations I have been using wood to make all my scales and on all 3 restorations the wedge appears to fit better with very little or no tapper on the "wedges". Where as the origanal "wedges" are tappered. Am I doing something wrong? Is there reason why the origanal "wedges" are all tappered?

Thanks Tony B.
ps I hope this made sense

It does make sense, you are talking the difference between a "spacer" (from knife builders) and a "wedge" (from vintage razors)
Honestly I have never seen a spacer on a Vintage razor...the "flex was put in there for strength and for actual flex when opening and closing the razor...
Now if you built scales that are so thick or stiff they do not allow for flex then you have to use a spacer...But I might suggest using nylon bearing washers to allow for some give, or you will have a razor that is always loose...

When the razor is pinned at the "wedge" only, the scales should have a gentle V shape as you look at them from above, and when you pull the pivot together the scales should have a bit of bow, (You all can argue this point all ya want but that is the way there have been built for over 200 years) How much of a V shape you have there, is just experience with many materials, and the taper of the tang, BTW it should match the tang taper ... Keep in mind I didn't make this stuff up I took apart a ton of razors and figured it out...

Maybe Max or one of the guys that deals with stronger materials can answer about spacers. My Max razor has micarta (or G10? is there a difference?) scales which are pretty darn strong and I think it's a spacer or a lightly-tapered wedge. The other materials I've come across -- celluloid, acrylic and horn -- all used wedges.

Thank you very much!!! That confirmed my suspicions. I understand now why and how the wedge makes the scales bow.
Thanks again!!! Tony B.

I think most razors were designs with a VERY small (1/16" or less) wide opening between the scales @ the toe end of the razor. Compare that opening, with the much wider tang (3/32 or more usually) , and you will realize why a wedge shape was needed. In order for the scales to clear the tang / not rub against them each time it was opened, they had to be in a "V" shape. This is also why scales were originally very thin, so, that they had enough flex in them to bow out and around the wider tangs, without exerting force that would cause them to split or crack.

I think that, if designed correctly and you used a certain kind of blade, a wedge shape isn't always required, assuming that the opening left at the toe of the razor is wider than the widest point of the tang. this would ensure no rubbing of the tang on the insides of the scales. The razor, however, would have to be a razor where the width of the tang was thinner than the spine of the razor, otherwise it would fall right through the scales

My 2c

EDIT: also, when I made a set of CF scales, I had to thin them out to the point where I could get them to bow enough to clear the tang on the razor I was pinning them to. thats why you see Philadelph making his CF scales so thin. you have to!

I've probably not seen as many razors as others have, but the only ones I've seen with an original spacer (not wedge shaped) have been 2 framebacks. 1 was scaled in Bone (no flex) the other in horn.

Originally Posted by Undream

...

I think that, if designed correctly and you used a certain kind of blade, a wedge shape isn't always required, assuming that the opening left at the toe of the razor is wider than the widest point of the tang. this would ensure no rubbing of the tang on the insides of the scales. The razor, however, would have to be a razor where the width of the tang was thinner than the spine of the razor, otherwise it would fall right through the scales

My 2c

EDIT: also, when I made a set of CF scales, I had to thin them out to the point where I could get them to bow enough to clear the tang on the razor I was pinning them to. thats why you see Philadelph making his CF scales so thin. you have to!

Like he said.

Some blades are not so accomodating to rigid, straight scales. With these you have to flex the scales and this is done by taperring the spacer/wedge/grangioplex and possibly even add a third pin to help (if tang geometry permits). Henckels Friodurs are notorious for this.

If your tang is already tapered you may not need to flex the scales around it.

Incidentally, "grangioplex" is a made up, general term of my own invention.