Thread: How thick should a wedge be?

Hi all, I'm working on making my first set of scales and have a question.

Concerning the wedge, how thick should it be at the thickest point? Should it be as thick as the razor? Thinner? Thicker?

Thank you bunches for answering.

Here is just a very general guide to it...
Measure the thickness of the tang, start with a touch more than half that for the wedge. Taper to a fine point, adjust the scales forward or backward until it looks right, drill, test fit, pin for effect...


Look here for more details.. You will finds tons of info

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

I determine the thickness of the wedge on the blade - and how deep I personally want the blade to sit, from an aesthetic standpoint (and how it fits based on the fit....as for how wedgie, that is determined by how thick the tang is.

Originally Posted by ThreeDog

Hi all, I'm working on making my first set of scales and have a question.

Concerning the wedge, how thick should it be at the thickest point? Should it be as thick as the razor? Thinner? Thicker?

Thank you bunches for answering.

Not to disagree with someone who knows a lot more than me, but I do things a little different than Glen. Although, it sounds like he's working with a long strip of material...

I drill the hole first (so it's straight), then taper to the angle I want, then cut to size, then tweak the thickness if I need to. As for cutting to size, I find it easiest trace the scales, then rough cut, then temporarily assemble with hex head screws, then file/sand it down to flush.

I think a lot of this is just feel and guesswork. The big points for me are matching it to the scales and the "height" of the spine when the razor is closed, like Brad said. The taper is really nice, but on some a flat wedge works and looks nice, too.

Originally Posted by BingoBango

Not to disagree with someone who knows a lot more than me, but I do things a little different than Glen. Although, it sounds like he's working with a long strip of material...

Hehehe there is no disagreement, you do things the hard way

Take a look at some of the links, I honestly believe once you see what I am describing you will find it to be much easier...

Look here too this had some good pics really...


Also you guys lost me on the adjust for height thing with the wedge... Don't you do that with the top curve of the scales in the first place??? or are you setting the spine at an angle to adjust for that?????

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hehehe there is no disagreement, you do things the hard way

Take a look at some of the links, I honestly believe once you see what I am describing you will find it to be much easier...

Look here too this had some good pics really...


Also you guys lost me on the adjust for height thing with the wedge... Don't you do that with the top curve of the scales in the first place??? or are you setting the spine at an angle to adjust for that?????

I find that this is the cure for certain razors that have fat tangs, such as fridour.
Otherwise I also go for thickness that will say leave the blade ~1/4" above the scales (or w/e height looks better for the blade). The taper so far for me is a separate thing. I might change my mind when I gain more experience.

Here are several from Mad Max and Myself that I just picked out at random...
Here are somethings to note, see how the top of the spines are in nice straight level lines across the razors.. See how we adjust the curves on the scales to show off what we want them to.. like names, stamps, etch, or even nothing at all... I am pretty sure Max does exactly what I do too and builds the scales to match the curves he wants.. I have always done the same, which is why it took me off guard when you said you use the wedge to adjust the height...


http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-stallion.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...t-acrylic.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-cocobolo.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...n-micarta.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...rple-haze.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...n-acrylic.html

I think the difference here is, glen, that you are adjusting the thickness of your wedge by sliding your long tapered piece back or forth to fit.

Me and Bingo drill FIRST while our wedge-blanks are flat, and then remove material until the blade is sitting as deep as we want.

I too, design each set of scales with a certain blade depth in mind. I cut my wedge to fit my original design, at first making it too thick (blade sits too deep). I then remove material slowly until the blade sits at the correct depth, to match the original scale design. During these thickness adjustments, i also adjust the "wedgy-ness" of the wedge to clear the tang...

Ahhhhhh

But what if you go to thin???? Don't you have to start all over again????

Yep! it has only happened twice in 50+ wedges I've made... I do notice your method generates a lot of wasted material, does it not? or, do you re-use it next time?