Thread: Dremel

And talking about happening so fast you don't know what happened everybody don't forget to use GOOD eye protection when using that dremmel because if a shard of the blade flies off it will usually head for your face. The piece that flew off mine bounced off my goggles. I know eye patches are sometimes in vogue but you don't want to look back and say why wasn't I wearing protection. (no wise cracks guys)

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

And talking about happening so fast you don't know what happened everybody don't forget to use GOOD eye protection when using that dremmel because if a shard of the blade flies off it will usually head for your face. The piece that flew off mine bounced off my goggles. I know eye patches are sometimes in vogue but you don't want to look back and say why wasn't I wearing protection. (no wise cracks guys)

That is true. The piece from mine hit me in my hair

Rich, you are now initiated to the power assisted restoration club. I suspect everyone destroys a blade by having the polishing wheel catch on the edge.

Bill emphasizes being alert at all times on his CD many times. He also says that when the wheel catches the edge it really wakes you up. Unfortunately, until it happens to you it does not sink in. After that however you never forget it.

Another thing to look out for is your grip on the blade. You always have to make sure that you are holding it in a break away position. This means that if it does catch on the wheel and slips from your grip, your fingers, hands, etc. won't be in the way. Better to let the blade fall and chip than have a finger or two sliced.

Watch out, even a dull blade will cut. Trust me, it does. Especially if you are sanding it. The sanding tends to sharpen the edge. Not shave sharp but skin cutting sharp. I was caught once by that. Started with a dull blade, dulled the edge to a butter knife at the begining and towards the end it was steak knife sharp due to sanding. I did not realize it until I cut myself on the serated edge.

And let's not forget the instant conversion to "Rockwell Solingen" razor trick. If you are not careful and working at high speeds at the very edge, where it is thin, you can overheat and detemper the steel. It shows up as a bluish tint on the edge. Work at low speeds near the edge of the blade and don't stay in one spot.

Vlad,

Thanks it is another group I could do without being a member of. I will have to take a picture and show you the chip. It did not totally destroy the blade but I am now gun shy about using the Dremel. I do have a question

The other blade that is heavily rusted is that trash or can it be saved, any thoughts and all help will be appreciated.

It is not trash, unless the pitting is so deep it would make holes right through the blade or not leave enough metal.

The violin blade had rust spots when I got it. Once the rust was cleaned up the spots showed up as heavy pitting. It cleaned up nicely.

Take a look at my latest post on PSA discs and you will see that it is possible to bring back a blade finish from the beyond.

It all depends on how deep the pits and where they are and how much of the metal are you willing to give up to get rid of them.

Do you have a picture?

I know what you mean about being gun shy. When I butchered a blade trying to get rid of the pitting it took me a few months to give pit removal a new try. The sooner you get back into and get good results the less traumatic the experience.

Vlad,

I have attached a pix of the blade. Looks even worse when I look at it.
Thanks for your opinion.

Wow! That definitely looks like a clean-up challenge. I can see the difference of the surface between the rusted and unrusted parts.

It looks like a full hollow ground blade, is it? Because if it is there may not be enough metal thickness in some parts. The sanding may make holes.

In any case I would try to clean it up, the worst thing that happens is that it does not work but you gain experience without worrying about ruining the blade. This blade is unusable in its current state anyway.

I would start by getting the rust off with 220 grit paper by hand. Sand the whole length of the blade. This will let you see the true extent of the pitting. Make sure you don't cut yourself on this blade. You might need tetanus shots if you do .

The pit removal would take 100 to 150 grit. Use the PSA disks or you will feel like Moses is leading you through the desert. Again, make sure you don't sand in one spot. Cover the full blade or you will make the blade uneven.

I say go for it, it is worth a try. If you bring this one back from the beyond then no other blade will ever scare you.

Vlad,

I got the two razors on ebay for like $9.00 & shipping. (6601496757) I was really interested in the one that I chipped. This one was a whatever. I am interested to see if I can bring it back. It is a full hollow ground blade so I am not sure how it will go. I have another Aevos I won 5 months back and it is a really great shaver. I am hoping I can rescue these two and add them to my collection.