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Thread: Buffer RPM questions

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    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Default Buffer RPM questions

    I've been looking through a lot of the buffer threads that I can find and am thinking of getting one. I have one question about them though. Is there a big difference between the 3000ish RPM buffers and the 1800ish ones? The reason I ask is that it seems that it would be much safer to work with a lower RPM, but I don't actually know for sure.
    Another reason I ask is that I haven't been able to find a buffer online that's relatively cheap (around 100 dollars or less) that has a lower RPM. The only ones with RPMs below 3000 that I saw were Baldors, and those cost 300 something dollars if I remember correctly.
    I know Glen uses the Harbor Freight ones which are very cheap, so maybe he can add any info about working with higher RPM ones. And I saw Brad's restoration videos and he uses a modified grinder which seems to go to lower RPMs. I was thinking of going that route, but didn't know if there were any disadvantages to it. I remember a thread Glen posted about grinders being hard to work on because the distance between the wheel and the motor is small, but Brad's seemed to be pretty good from what I could tell.

    Any answers to any of the many questions above would be greatly appreciated.

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    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    I use a HF buffer, and I just make sure to constantly check and let the blade cool down. so far I have not had any problems (a lower rpm would probably be easier though), but I use a fairly light touch, and I am always checking the heat. You can get the steel hot enough in your hand to give you a burn with a blister though... especially when buffing small areas like tangs etc. And it can get hot quicker than you think it would, so pace yourself and check often.

    IMHO I think you'll appreciate a buffer more than a modified grinder because the clearance issue can really hamper you... sometimes my HF buffer seems like it needs more clearance really

    Those are my thoughts anyway

    Dave

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Go with one rated at 1700-1800. Reasoning is simply because of the heat that is generated with polishing & cleaning up a blade. Don't want to ruin that wonderful temper. If you've watched Undream's video's, you will notice that he states he leaves his on the slowest setting...with a Delta, I think it's around 1750 free wheeling speed. Glen has a handful of buffers if I remember the shop pic, don't know the speed of them though.

    I've been looking for a 8" 3/4-1 hp in the 1700-1800 speed on the cheap myself. Please post or PM me if you find something under $100, most I have found at the department/home improvement stores are in the $125-150 range.
    Scott
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    This is going to get complicated but here goes,,,

    More important than rpm is surface speed,,,

    A few people on here have done the math in threads Icedog/Brad did a great one...

    What this means is that a smaller wheel going faster actually has a slower surface speed then a larger wheel going slower...

    Grinders normally can't use the smaller wheels the walls get in the way, that is what I meant...And keep in mind there are different ones out there with different designs....

    The best there is out there, is a variable 1100 -3500 Buffer but yes they are expensive...

    A lower speed Buffer is next best at 1100 or 1725
    or a variable speed Grinder motor like Brad has using bigger wheels this is another option...

    I use the 3450,s but I use 4 inch wheels... Keep in mind I don't use the smaller wheels because of the speed, I use them because I can get into the Hollow grinds better...

    The enemy here is heat if you can keep the heat down everything else is a moot point...
    With a lower speed you can use more pressure than you can with a higher speed
    of the SAME size... BUT is more pressure better??? or just faster??

    For polish I use a 1725 I just haven't been able to get the right effect with a higher speed....

    Another option is what Floppyshoes uses which is a variable speed Lathe with the buffer wheel attachment...

    There are many paths to shine, and that was a ton of stuff I posted so go through it and think about it all..
    But keep in mind it is all about heat and heat build up....
    Last edited by gssixgun; 03-23-2010 at 05:56 PM.

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    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    What this means is that a smaller wheel going faster actually has a slower surface speed then a larger wheel going slower...

    But keep in mind it is all about heat and heat build up....
    Oh yeah.. forgot to mention that I don't really ever use any wheel sizes over 6" and the 4" is probably my go to. thanks for jogging my memory Glen, it does make a difference.

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    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    So if I'm shooting for something that is as small as possible (don't have a huge space for it), that will be less likely to overheat my blades, and that is most cost effective, the lower speed buffers with smaller wheels seem to be my best bet, right?
    Has anyone found any low speed buffers that are close to 100 dollars? The Baldors are unfortunately way out of my range at the moment.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    +1 on Glen with surface speeds. Here is a link to Caswell plating and it addresses most of the items you should consider when choosing a buffer/grinder. RPM's plays into it but only as part of an equation.

    Introduction To Buffing and Polishing - Caswell Inc.
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Horsepower !!!

    I forgot that, now two schools of thought here too,

    Over 1/2 HP
    More power = less strain on the motor = less motor heat up = longer lasting motor...


    My theory; and that is all it is
    1/2 HP or less, because we are buffing razors, not engine parts, it is light duty work, and I have always had more of an irrational fear of that wheel grabbing my sleeve or my hand somehow, and breaking every bone in it, then I ever have of burning out a motor... or even cutting myself...
    Feel free to disagree..

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    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Horsepower !!!

    I forgot that, now two schools of thought here too,

    Over 1/2 HP
    More power = less strain on the motor = less motor heat up = longer lasting motor...


    My theory; and that is all it is
    1/2 HP or less, because we are buffing razors, not engine parts, it is light duty work, and I have always had more of an irrational fear of that wheel grabbing my sleeve or my hand somehow, and breaking every bone in it, then I ever have of burning out a motor... or even cutting myself...
    Feel free to disagree..
    Are buffers with more horsepower more likely to destroy your hand if it gets caught? I'm really new to any power tool/motor related things, so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

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    To me, as Glen says, heat is really what you have to watch out for and particularly when using greaseless compounds. I tend to use the 4 inch wheels mainly with the greaseless and will only use it with either an 1800 rpm or 1100 rpm and even here you need to be very careful with the heat as you can burn up a blade pretty easily. I normally use 6 inch wheels with my 3600 rpm buffer and this motor gets used more with my emery or quick cutting buffing compounds. I am very careful of the heat here too. For the medium polishing compounds to the rouges, I use the 1100 or 1800 for the results I like the best.

    Buffing like everything else in our sport takes some practice and experimentation. There is also that personal preference thing again that comes into play with your comfort.

    Safety is also a very large concern here and should not be taken lightly.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

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