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Thread: My first project
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03-29-2010, 06:34 PM #11
Some more photos. These are taken with the same method as the before photos was taken. Maybe with these it is easyer to make a comparison.
With that description it is an etching. I can not feel anything when running my finger over it.
BingoBango
If it's an etching, you should be able to get away with using Maas.
Sailor and Ursus, heeeeelp me.
Eli tarkoittaako tuo, että sen saa kiiltäväksi maasilla ilman että etsaus häviää?
There are any active rust. It haves a patina and etching. That is a good question what to do with it. I have to still try an Autosol or usual car wax. And then decide if the best solution for this case is to let it be like it is. And continue with honing lessons.
If I let it be as it is I must have a new project knife which have not etching and try to make it mirror polished.
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03-29-2010, 07:36 PM #12
if it is frosting you will for surely lose it if you continue polishing the blade too hard. If it is etching you have changes to save it.
In Finnish:
Käsittääkseni frosting tarkoittaa tässä tapauksessa pinnoitettua kuvaa, vähän niinkuin erittäin ohutta tarraa. Hiomalla lähtee varmasti pois. Etching taas tarkoittaa terään syövytettyä tai kaiverrettua kuvaa, jonka pinta siis on varsinaista terän pintaa syvemmällä. Se ei pikkuhionnalla häviä, mutta häviää sekin jos liian paljon hiot.
Tämä näyttää etsatulta, joten varovasti voit koittaa sitä hioa, mutta itse tunnustelematta terää en voi varmaksi sanoa. Pitäisi olla vähän niinkuin automaalarin peukalo, joka tuntee kaikki pienet epätasaisuudet ja karheudet.Last edited by Sailor; 03-29-2010 at 07:38 PM.
'That is what i do. I drink and i know things'
-Tyrion Lannister.
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03-29-2010, 07:56 PM #13
Two things - You're more likely to feel etching than frosting. Frosting is on the surface and difficult to feel. Etching is actually cut into the metal. The tang is etched. Does that make sense? If you make a mistake between frosting and etching, you might wind up losing that cool design on the razor. I used Google translator on Sailor's description (you need a translator just to understand the translation...), he probably explained it very well.
What I meant with the quote is: Even if the etching is shallow, you will be able to get good results without losing the etching if you use a metal polish, such as Maas. If you use a hard abrasive like sandpaper or a dremel, a shallow etching will be lost.
So, 1) make sure it's really etching, then 2) use Maas on a paper towel. That's what I would do anyway. The new photos still don't look like rust, more like stains. Either way, Maas should clean that up for you.
Good luck!
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The Following User Says Thank You to BingoBango For This Useful Post:
Sailor (03-29-2010)
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03-30-2010, 03:42 PM #14
Thank you all. Now I got the point.
Sailor: do we have MAAS here in Finland?
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03-31-2010, 12:29 PM #15
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Thanked: 1936This razor looks like a perfect candidate for the "tumbler method".
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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04-02-2010, 02:48 AM #16
I'm experimenting with tumbling razors for the first time now. Like gssixgun, who first posted the idea, I reload brass and have tried different media and additives over the years. I would start with treated corncob, rather than walnut, to preserve the frosting/etching on that blade.
Goog
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04-02-2010, 05:38 PM #17
En ole maasia nähnyt missään, mutta se ei tarkoita etteikö sitä olisi. Itselläni on Pol-nimistä ainetta joka aika hyvin ottaa patinan pois (jos sen haluaa hävittää. Sinällään tuo näyttää aika hyvältä noinkin). Varmaan monet muutkin aineet toimivat: auto/venetarvikeliikkeissä, biltemassa ja kultasepillä saattaa olla jotain. Onnea matkaan.
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04-05-2010, 06:16 PM #18
What is that tumbler method? Can you explain that, please.
At the last thorsday I bought a Farecla paste compuond. I tried it and the blade is now brighter. It is an abrasive compound. On the back side of the blade I polished it a little more than on the front side. I tried to be carefully when I was polishing the front side. Unfortunately I can not put the photos here because my old laptop is almost dead. I am writing this by my phone. Tomorrow I am able to try to get those photos to the web.
The blade is not straight. I can see it from the magic marker track. I have photo of this too.
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04-06-2010, 03:28 AM #19
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Thanked: 3795Look here. It's also described in the restoration Wiki.
Basically it involves putting the blade without scales into a vibratory tumbler and the vibrating action of the media removes light scratches and rust.
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04-06-2010, 01:23 PM #20
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Thanked: 1936Before you go any further on polishing the blade, I would recommend that you decide on what the desired finish/results you are expecting. If you want a blade that looks like chrome, you will loose the frosting on the blade. Considering your blade has no active rust, you may consider honing it up and keeping the finish as it is. I have several old blades in my rotation that I have kept the original patina on them, but have several old ones that I have polished up.
Best of luck,
ScottSoutheastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott