Thread: The Third Pin

A question..

I've got one razor that needs new scales, and I've been thinking about adding the third pin and spacer. Am I correct in assuming that the spacer at the third pin location is the stop for the tang, so the stop when closed is not the sides of the blade against the scales??? Or is the ideal for all three points of contact to meet at once?

Originally Posted by BlacknTan

A question..

I've got one razor that needs new scales, and I've been thinking about adding the third pin and spacer. Am I correct in assuming that the spacer at the third pin location is the stop for the tang, so the stop when closed is not the sides of the blade against the scales??? Or is the ideal for all three points of contact to meet at once?

I think the third pin was actually to stabilize the scales, and not meant to be a stop for the razor.

Originally Posted by commiecat

I think the third pin was actually to stabilize the scales, and not meant to be a stop for the razor.

I have a 3 pin and the 3rd pin does not seem to touch the tang or blade so my guess would be that it is either to help stabilize them.. or it is purely cosmetic.

Originally Posted by Troggie

I have a 3 pin and the 3rd pin does not seem to touch the tang or blade so my guess would be that it is either to help stabilize them.. or it is purely cosmetic.

Yep. If your edge is protruding from the bottom of the scales without a third pin then either the scales are too narrow or they weren't made correctly. The restoration masters could provide some more detail about it.

It serves a few purposes...

It is cosmetic
It can serve as an emergency blade/tang stop
It is cosmetic
It re-contours the inside curve of the scales to allow for wonky tang taper...
It is cosmetic
It strengthens the scales
It is cosmetic
It stabilizes the scales from shifting
It is cosmetic

It is also a PITA to get the hang of doing them correctly,so make sure you practice a few times before the final fit...
Too big, or too small a center post, will warp/crack the scales... it can also mess up your wedge end fit by an improper sized center post...

I have never even done a guide to doing these, as they are all hand fit to each razor and each set of scales... It is a rather simple little thing that can really mess up a great set of scales...

PS: I have never, not once, ever, taken apart a vintage razor that actually rests on the center post....

Glen, didn't I read somewhere that the center pin can cause more trouble sometimes ? Warping and such ?

Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

Glen, didn't I read somewhere that the center pin can cause more trouble sometimes ? Warping and such ?

Yeah LMAO right above yer post OLD Fart Muhahahaha


But yes Jimmy I was looking for that old post/thread too, I think I had pics in it IIRC

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yeah LMAO right above yer post OLD Fart Muhahahaha


But yes Jimmy I was looking for that old post/thread too, I think I had pics in it IIRC

Glen, don't call me stupid in public, wait until we get home .... It's just oldtimer's disease.

A few thoughts (MHO so take for what you think it's worth).

The third pin, works with the brass bearings at the pivot to hold the scales apart preventing the insides of the scales touching the tang or the shoulder. This may seem trivial but if the tang has gold wash or fancy glyph stamped in it, the scales will scratch the finish even though the scales are soft compared to the steel (have you ever seen those “hinge” marks on the tang?). When the razor is sharpened (or man-handled) it is easy for some of the slurry (or abrasive dust) to get between the scales and the tang… I suppose they didn’t want to mar the finish before the product gets to the customer.

I have seen only two razors where the third pin actually stopped the blade before the point contact the wedge end… one was a ERN razor and the other was a Beau Brummel… there may be others.

The scales on the ERN was straighter instead of the usual curved “banana” profile, and the tang was “humped” at the upper and lower, so the pin easily contact the tang when closed.
In the case of the Beau Brummel the third pin is off-set closer to the top of the scales to allow contact with the tang when the razor is closed.

3 pin scales don’t work very well on blades with highly tapered tang/tail because the third pin holds the scales apart close to the pivot, the taper puts too much stress on the small pivot area as the razor is opened. The razor does not open “smoothly”. It is loose when closed and up to the 90 degree, but then gets very tight at the 180, and loose again at the 270, and you may question your scale making ability or suspect the pivot pin is bent… very annoying.

On some of the old monster wedges needed that third pin because the tang/spine was so wide. It would stress the scales, to much flexing with the super wide blade. I have put them on a few razors, and ruined a few scales doing them. You have to make sure the tail of the razor will clear the pin. Did one once, perfect scales, had it all put together, opened the blade and the tip of the tail caught the third pin. Some razors with long tails or short tangs will not even work with a third pin.

I think I remember someone saying it was mostly cosmetic once....