Results 1 to 10 of 11

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Medina, Ohio
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanked: 530

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    yes just try on a junk blade and see how it goes. Do not forget to wear protection, because those wheels like to spin blades out of hands in directions you would least expect
    I wear safety goggles, a Respirator and a heavy sweatshirt or a leather jacket, along with leather gloves...

    Thanks for the heads up!

  2. #2
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ShavedZombie View Post
    I wear safety goggles, a Respirator and a heavy sweatshirt or a leather jacket, along with leather gloves...

    Thanks for the heads up!
    you need to cover the feet because the wheels will spin the blade down, gloves will not let you feel when the blade is too hot and in general lack enough feedback to feel what is going on just IMHO.
    Stefan

  3. #3
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Medina, Ohio
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanked: 530

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    you need to cover the feet because the wheels will spin the blade down, gloves will not let you feel when the blade is too hot and in general lack enough feedback to feel what is going on just IMHO.

    Forgot to mention the rubber, steel toed boots

    And I wear the gloves with non-greaseless.. Guess I'll lose them for the greaseless. Thanks again!

  4. #4
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Medina, Ohio
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanked: 530

    Default

    And here are some pictures... One is a head on view of the wheel... Notice that the "plating" effect layers so that, when the buffer spins, it works with the grain and creates a nearly seamless surface... The other picture is a top down view, so you can see the plate/crack lines
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  5. #5
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
    Posts
    7,285
    Thanked: 1936
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    It's loaded up a plenty!!

    I've run into the same thing you have and one part is that my shaft extensions don't seem to run 100% true. I know they should, but they don't. That along with buffing wheels not being 100% round gets me to this point you are at. I do use mine as they are, but I really thing that it's much harder considering that you don't have contact with the wheel all the time. I do try and rotate the wheel on the shaft (loosen the nut a bit) a bit to find a happy medium with mine. Having this "slight" imbalance/out of round is workable, just approach with caution. I actually think it helps me to take my time and be extra cautious. You will know if you have things too much out of round...it will seem as though you are fighting it...this is not good. The wheel WILL snatch the blade right out of your hands. It's like some invisible super blackbelt just takes it from you and throws it at your feet! Recommendation: If you are working on a concrete floor, get a scrap of carpet or some mat for your buffing area, could help to save a blade "when" you get one snatched from you. That's not an IF, but a when....
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to ScottGoodman For This Useful Post:

    ShavedZombie (06-01-2010)

  7. #6
    < Banned User >
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Medina, Ohio
    Posts
    1,286
    Thanked: 530

    Default

    Shooter, thanks for the tips... Also, I got some advice from Dylan that really helped clean my wheels up, and I've been working on some application methods that have a more even coverage, but the best thing so far was to rake the wheel VERY thoroughly, then take a good pair of scissors (my mother has sewing scissors that I used) and trim the whole thing down flush... Don't reduce past the actual "hair line" of the wheel, but make it all uniform, and it applys much smoother...

    I tried, as an experiment, picking up a spare wheel from Home Depot and then trimming it even further (imagine giving your buffer wheel a buzz cut :P) and then applying... The short, tough fibers actually grabbed the compound REALLY well, and left a nice even cover... And, since you rarely, if ever, need to rake greaseless, just reload the wheel, the short hairs aren't a hindrance... at least to me..

    YMMV, though.

    Good luck!

    Cheers,
    Jeremy

  8. #7
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Northumberland UK
    Posts
    3
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    Hi,

    I had the same problem, ended up with a nice pile under the mop and none on it, but here is an easy solution I learnt.

    Take about a 1" cube and place it in a water tight bag ( sandwich bag with a knot in the top will do) then place the sealed back in hot water and wait a few minutes. The compound should become like a thin paste as it melts, you can then apply this direct to your mop using something like a butter knife!! Careful how much you put on as its easy to go overboard!!
    Then put mop aside and wait to dry.......
    Hope this helps

  9. The Following User Says Thank You to screamingpig For This Useful Post:

    ScottGoodman (06-02-2010)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •