Thread: Some questions about Greaseless Compound

Originally Posted by mainaman

yes just try on a junk blade and see how it goes. Do not forget to wear protection, because those wheels like to spin blades out of hands in directions you would least expect

I wear safety goggles, a Respirator and a heavy sweatshirt or a leather jacket, along with leather gloves...

Thanks for the heads up!

Originally Posted by ShavedZombie

I wear safety goggles, a Respirator and a heavy sweatshirt or a leather jacket, along with leather gloves...

Thanks for the heads up!

you need to cover the feet because the wheels will spin the blade down, gloves will not let you feel when the blade is too hot and in general lack enough feedback to feel what is going on just IMHO.

Originally Posted by mainaman

you need to cover the feet because the wheels will spin the blade down, gloves will not let you feel when the blade is too hot and in general lack enough feedback to feel what is going on just IMHO.

Forgot to mention the rubber, steel toed boots

And I wear the gloves with non-greaseless.. Guess I'll lose them for the greaseless. Thanks again!

And here are some pictures... One is a head on view of the wheel... Notice that the "plating" effect layers so that, when the buffer spins, it works with the grain and creates a nearly seamless surface... The other picture is a top down view, so you can see the plate/crack lines

It's loaded up a plenty!!

I've run into the same thing you have and one part is that my shaft extensions don't seem to run 100% true. I know they should, but they don't. That along with buffing wheels not being 100% round gets me to this point you are at. I do use mine as they are, but I really thing that it's much harder considering that you don't have contact with the wheel all the time. I do try and rotate the wheel on the shaft (loosen the nut a bit) a bit to find a happy medium with mine. Having this "slight" imbalance/out of round is workable, just approach with caution. I actually think it helps me to take my time and be extra cautious. You will know if you have things too much out of round...it will seem as though you are fighting it...this is not good. The wheel WILL snatch the blade right out of your hands. It's like some invisible super blackbelt just takes it from you and throws it at your feet! Recommendation: If you are working on a concrete floor, get a scrap of carpet or some mat for your buffing area, could help to save a blade "when" you get one snatched from you. That's not an IF, but a when....

Shooter, thanks for the tips... Also, I got some advice from Dylan that really helped clean my wheels up, and I've been working on some application methods that have a more even coverage, but the best thing so far was to rake the wheel VERY thoroughly, then take a good pair of scissors (my mother has sewing scissors that I used) and trim the whole thing down flush... Don't reduce past the actual "hair line" of the wheel, but make it all uniform, and it applys much smoother...

I tried, as an experiment, picking up a spare wheel from Home Depot and then trimming it even further (imagine giving your buffer wheel a buzz cut :P) and then applying... The short, tough fibers actually grabbed the compound REALLY well, and left a nice even cover... And, since you rarely, if ever, need to rake greaseless, just reload the wheel, the short hairs aren't a hindrance... at least to me..

YMMV, though.

Good luck!

Cheers,
Jeremy

Hi,

I had the same problem, ended up with a nice pile under the mop and none on it, but here is an easy solution I learnt.

Take about a 1" cube and place it in a water tight bag ( sandwich bag with a knot in the top will do) then place the sealed back in hot water and wait a few minutes. The compound should become like a thin paste as it melts, you can then apply this direct to your mop using something like a butter knife!! Careful how much you put on as its easy to go overboard!!
Then put mop aside and wait to dry.......
Hope this helps