Thread: Question on Tools

I am just getting into this restoration (picked up a few razors on ebay). I have done a lot of reading but am not exactly clear what tools are needed to do a blade restoration. I am sure alot of it is preference. Can it all be done 100% by hand? I have a dremel tool...can I use this? Do I need a bench grinder? I have read the wiki and a ton of threads. The video restoration I saw the guy had a lot of bench mounted power tools. Most of the blades I got have rust that needs to be removed. If there is an existing thread Im missing please point me in the right direction.


Thanks
Luke

For starting out, you might want to consider just using wet/dry sandpaper, Maas, and a polishing cloth. In my opinion that is the better way to start out. It CAN all be done by hand, and it can take many hours, but it is a useful starting point. A Dremel can speed things up, but it can really speed up breaking a blade or injuring yourself.

In general, most grinders are too fast for razor work. Also, the short shafts of a grinder force you to work in front of the wheel rather than under it where it is safer.

Everything I've done has been with a hand-held Dremel rotary-tool (corded, w/flexible shaft and variable-speed foot control). I use a variety of 3M radial discs, flap-wheels, buffers, buffing compounds, etc., etc. -- all mounted on my Dremel.

People will tell you that bench-mounted buffers are the way to go. Sure... if you've got the space and the cash. If not, Dremel works fine. It's "good enough", and after more than a few shots of Smirnoff, who the heck cares? (or cares what they say?)



Look at the photos in my sig-block collection and SOTD photos: everything was bought on ebaY; everything was covered in a patina ("dirty", for those of us who are fiscally-challenged); and everything was cleaned-up/polished by me, with a hand-held Dremel tool. I'm happy with 'em. You'll be, too; after all, it's the fruit of our labors, the work of our hands.

If you've got questions, ask.

Enjoy the effort and be proud... Smooth shaving!

It also depends on what your trying to achieve. If your just cleaning up some blades you can do it without much gear at all, but if your taking razors apart, making scales, polishing blades and putting razors back together life is much easier with a few tools.
I started with some sand paper and along the way have accumilated other tools, Dremmel, drill press, buffers, belt sanders, grinder etc. It also helps to spread out the expense by getting one thing at a time.
G.

Im looking to do soup to nuts restores but I know it doesnt happen overnight. So basically I can do it all via hand. But it seems some are using a dremel to do the work as well. Any downside to the dremel besides safety?

Like Utopian said, anything that makes work makes messing up happen faster too. IMO, it's easiest to learn everything the slow way and work your way up (FWIW, I have the same approach to learning to hone - start doing touchups only and work backwards). Also, unless you already have a dremel, it's an investment. Starting with Maas, steel wool, progressing to sandpaper is a much less expensive way to learn (and to see if you really like it).

Then, when you get ready to invest, a buffer setup can be done for the same price as a dremel setup, and IMO a buffer is safer (I think it's a better way to work too but I've never used a Dremel and I imagine there is a lot of personal preference factor too).

Originally Posted by Utopian

For starting out, you might want to consider just using wet/dry sandpaper, Maas, and a polishing cloth. In my opinion that is the better way to start out. It CAN all be done by hand, and it can take many hours, but it is a useful starting point. A Dremel can speed things up, but it can really speed up breaking a blade or injuring yourself.

In general, most grinders are too fast for razor work. Also, the short shafts of a grinder force you to work in front of the wheel rather than under it where it is safer.

Huge +1

220-320-400-600-800-1000-1500-2000 grit wet-r-dry will do the trick, it also gives you a very good working knowledge of the blade...

It will take about 6 hours of steady work, it doesn't have to be done all at once, most of it is at 220 grit... Use wd-40 as the wet part, not water...

There are tons of pitfalls as soon as you plug in, try at least a couple by hand, the knowledge you attain is priceless...

Maas? Acronym or brand?

MAAS is a brand of metal polish. I know you can buy it from their own website, and I think mose ACE Hardware stores carry it too.

is this the stuff?

Amazon.com: Maas 91403 Polishing Creme For All Metals: Home & Garden