Thread: Greaseless compound buffing question

I have a question about using greaseless compounds:

I've taken apart two razors and used my variable speed Porter Cable buffer at the lowest speed and a progression of 80-600 greasless compounds to clean/buff the blades.

What I've found is that I've wound up with an uneven edge – i.e a slight frown in one area- twice.
When I work on the blade, I always use a light touch to sweep the blade (edge down) across the wheel from heel to tip. And I've done everything I can to ensure the blade-to-wheel angle and pressure are constant the entire time.

I've repeatedly watched the buffing videos in the SRP Wiki, and I've read everything I can find in the forums, but I may have missed something.

Any suggestions, or maybe a link to the post/wiki article I'm missing, would be greatly appreciated.

I'm very new at this, and I've only been trying this on razors I've gotten for dirt cheap off the Bay, specifically to practice with, but I'd like to refine my technique before trying this on a razor that isn't a 'practice' or 'junk' piece and I'm not sure what I'm missing.


Thanks for your advice!

I don't know how many routine you have with buffing, but it is not so easy to learn. Practice, and the results will be better and better with time. Practice on the junk razors until they don't look like razors anymore, but they will be shiney like hell

What grit are you starting at and how long are you spending on it?

I start with the 80 grit if the razor has pitting and only move up grits once I've removed all the pitting and/or rust (or as much of the pitting as I'm willing to).
I don't concentrate on just the part of the blade that has the pitting, as I try to keep the metal removal uniform across the entire blade.

The explanation is way harder then the fix,,, basically don't push the razor back against the curve of the wheel, the razor edge stays pointing straight down. so that the wheel is never burning the edge off...

I buff spine to edge also, but not everyone does, some buff lengthwise some buff multi directional (except edge to spine ) so these are other thoughts too...

But what you are doing is following the wheel instead of the other way around,,, Most of the time this is caused by holding the toe and the heel and pushing with the thumbs, DON"T do that... I rest my index finger across the back of the blade it is the safest and easiest to control that I have found... If the spine catches then the blade just pivots away with no risk of a cut... I wish I could do those cool diagrams, but alas I am just not that good with computers, just remember the edge points straight down, never back toward the wheel... BTW I start at 80-120-180-240-320-400-600 then on to polishes so it isn't the grit

Glen-


Yes, I was using my thumb against the back of the blade, up near the back, and allowing blade to follow the curve of the wheel, if that makes sense. It seemed to me that was the best way to actually get the wheel and compound to contact the part of the top of the blade (nearest the back) on a non-wedge razor.
Also, I think Undream's video tutorial on restoration shows his thumb against the back of the blade on some of the coarser grits. Although his example didn't seem to have any of the edge reshaped after running on the wheels.
Maybe I'll try running the wheel heel-to-toe to remove pitting on the blade surface itself.


I suppose it's all up to practice, and will definitely give me the opportunity to learn honing! One step at a time.

Think about the relation of the wheel and the edge,,,, if you push the edge back, then the wheel is coming down through the edge of the blade, that you do not want...
You only want to kiss,, the face of the blade, regardless of the direction...

See I told you explaining was harder then the fix LOL

OHHHHHH just don't spin the wheel, turn your buffer off, and hold the razor against it, rock the blade back toward the wheel, and then straight down, and look at the relation to it... That should help...

I will definitely do that.
Umm... once again, I may be missing the obvious (tape?) but is there a way to reduce the 'faux-hone wear' – I just made that term up – of the wheel removing metal from the spine? Seems like the tape would be gone almost instantly, and might get unwanted adhesive all over the wheel.
And yeah, the explanation may be difficult, but I assure you, it's helping.
Thanks again.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

...BTW I start at 80-120-180-240-320-400-600 then on to polishes...

I use the above progression and also have the Black emery stick,
Blue stick both from Caswell and also a white stick and red rough.
QUESTION: What is the progression of the aforementioned sticks?
Thanks for any help.

Originally Posted by axxter

I will definitely do that.
Umm... once again, I may be missing the obvious (tape?) but is there a way to reduce the 'faux-hone wear' – I just made that term up – of the wheel removing metal from the spine? Seems like the tape would be gone almost instantly, and might get unwanted adhesive all over the wheel.
And yeah, the explanation may be difficult, but I assure you, it's helping.
Thanks again.

Don't push hard against the spine, on the lower grits,,,, the only time you want to push is for pits....
Also for high pits (by the spine) turn the razor lengthwise and just use the the wheel as close to the spine as needed...then turn back to spine to edge buffing to line up the polish, or not....