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07-13-2010, 05:46 PM #1
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- Apr 2010
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- Midland, TX
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Thanked: 23A testament to this site's wealth of knowledge
At 240 I change my sanding method. From then onwards I will do 1 grit from edge to spine until all the previous scratch lines are gone. Then I go to the next grit and go from heel to toe until all previous scratch lines are gone.
I always end up with a pretty finish, but upon inspection, it looks like a very scratchy mirror. I ALWAYS miss stray lines caused by earlier grits. Then, I just caught this little gem of advice. I can't wait to get home to start on my next project: a massively heavy 6/8ths Frederick Reynolds wedge. I think that advice will really turn polishing around for me.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Timedwards For This Useful Post:
ScottGoodman (07-14-2010)
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07-13-2010, 06:01 PM #2
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- Jan 2008
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- Rochester, MN
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Thanked: 3795
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07-13-2010, 06:05 PM #3
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Location
- Midland, TX
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- 130
Thanked: 23
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07-14-2010, 03:26 PM #4
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- Sep 2009
- Location
- SE Oklahoma/NE Texas
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Thanked: 19363 n 1 or any other "light" machine oil. 3 n 1 is so cheap and readily available that you can't pass it up...good stuff. It's what I use to oil my razors. Of course I wipe them down before stropping or shaving with them. The oil seems to help with consistency & lessens the "gouges" the sandpaper sometimes leaves.
Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
Thank you and God Bless, Scott
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07-16-2010, 12:12 AM #5
Would cutting/threading oil work the same?
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07-16-2010, 12:19 AM #6
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- Jan 2008
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- Rochester, MN
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Thanked: 3795I would assume that any light weight oil would work just fine. It only takes a couple of small drops on each side of the blade and it makes the job go much better than dry sanding.