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  1. #1
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    Default Grinder = buffer?

    So I am looking around on CL for a buffer, there are none, but there are plenty on grinders. Would I be able to take a 6 inch grinder and put the cloth wheels on it and use that for restoration? I have access to all the tools needed except a buffer, so I am hoping this works out. I would just remove the protection and be good to go correct? I already have my first razor to restore on the way so I am about to make something happen .

    Thanks
    Jared

  2. #2
    They call me Mr Bear. Stubear's Avatar
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    I had a look into this a while back and I think you need the longer spindles on a buffer in order to have the space to work. Grinder spindles are shorter than buffer spindles.

    IIRC there is a way of retro fitting the longer spindles though, but one of the more experienced guys can tell you more..!

  3. #3
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    Speed tends to be an issue as well; most grinders run well above the 1800rpm average on buffers. That means quicker cutting, more heat, and possibly more danger.

    It's certainly doable...you just have to be careful and pay even more attention, I think. Again, I'm sure someone with more experience will chime in here.

  4. #4
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I know a thing or two

    First thing of importance is Surface speed here is a formula and tons of info in this thread (most grinders are running at 3450 rpm)

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...questions.html

    The problem as the guys already pointed out can be clearance with the Grinder so you have to use at least a 6 inch wheel maybe even 8 in which at Grinder speeds is getting a pretty fast surface speed...
    A true buffer can use 4 inch wheel and even smaller which at even 3450 is a slow enough Surface speed to work out....

    So if there is no clearance you need slower speed, and if you have clearance to use smaller wheels you can adjust that way...

    One way or another you need to be able to adjust to get the most work out of them...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 07-27-2010 at 07:49 PM.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Cool thanks for the info, what would be the best entry way to go other than a HF buffer. I am pretty anti HF tools.

    This?

    Thanks
    Jared
    Last edited by rahimlee54; 07-27-2010 at 08:37 PM.

  6. #6
    Scale Maniac BKratchmer's Avatar
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    I will give my frequent-but-oft-unwanted golden advice:

    Good tools are expensive. Period. You will find a lot of guys who find ways to do it cheap. You will find a lot of guys missing fingers. In a Venn diagram, these two groups often overlap.

    I know it's hard to do sometimes, but I would recommend putting aside a little money every month until you have saved enough for a buffer... it'll happen faster than you think, and in the end you will be much happier and safer...

    YMMV.

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    Philadelph (07-30-2010)

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    Quote Originally Posted by BKratchmer View Post
    I will give my frequent-but-oft-unwanted golden advice:

    Good tools are expensive. Period. You will find a lot of guys who find ways to do it cheap. You will find a lot of guys missing fingers. In a Venn diagram, these two groups often overlap.

    I know it's hard to do sometimes, but I would recommend putting aside a little money every month until you have saved enough for a buffer... it'll happen faster than you think, and in the end you will be much happier and safer...

    YMMV.
    You feel the delta is not adequate? I mean I can afford to get something nicer, but as always, more cash in hand is better. I'll hand sand this thing when I get it and maybe when I get back from vacation next month send off for a higher end buffer.

  9. #8
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    You can also use a tapered spindle extension to achieve more clearance

    Josco | Polishing Tapered Spindles
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  10. #9
    BF4 gamer commiecat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rahimlee54 View Post
    You feel the delta is not adequate? I mean I can afford to get something nicer, but as always, more cash in hand is better. I'll hand sand this thing when I get it and maybe when I get back from vacation next month send off for a higher end buffer.
    Undream (Brad) posted a great tutorial on how he restores razors. He uses the variable speed Delta as his buffer to restore:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...rt-finish.html

    The third video he posted is where you'll want to start as far as buffers go. Otherwise save up for a Baldor.

  11. #10
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Disclaimer: Obviously Brad/Undream in his videos has demonstrated that he knows what he is doing. What I am about to say is in no way meant to be a criticism of him. I am using his videos to make a point, that is all.

    What is seen in those videos is dangerous. He is regularly holding the razor against the danger zone of the wheel. If you want to learn about what the safe zone is, read the Caswell Buffing Manual. Now, the reason that the safe zone is critical is that if the wheel catches a razor in the safe zone, the blade will be thrown AWAY from you. In the danger zone, the razor will be THROWN AT YOU.

    So, why would Brad do something that is inherently dangerous? Does he have a death wish?
    I doubt it.
    Is he a moron?
    No, of course not.
    So why is he doing it?
    It's because he is using a grinder to do his buffing and the safe zone is not accessible to him because the wheels are so close to the motor. He can only work in front of the wheel because that is the only area available to him. That is the reason that a grinder used as a buffer is an inherently dangerous option.
    If you want to be safe, get a buffer so you can work UNDER the wheel.
    If you want to save money, get a grinder but understand that you risk having a razor thrown at you.

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    BKratchmer (07-28-2010), Philadelph (07-30-2010), Undream (08-04-2010)

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