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Thread: Sanding restoring GOLDBUG scales
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07-28-2010, 10:51 PM #1
Sanding restoring GOLDBUG scales
So i recently bought a Goldbug on the bay , and its in decent condition. The blade itself has the typical rust/that just needs to be hand-sanded, and the scales are in in great shape as in no cracks chips ect, however after cleaning it with MAAS it still doesn't shine for me, so was wondering if you can sand them back to life. I remember seeing a thread where Max said he did this so maybe he will chime in, but if so what would the progression be , start at 800 ? 600? any help will be greatly appreciated.
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07-28-2010, 11:26 PM #2
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Thanked: 3795The grit you start with is dependent on how deep any existing scratches or pitting might be. If you start with the 600 grit and you end up with nothing but 600 grit scratches and nothing beneath it, then you can progress up the grits. However, if the 600 does not remove everything, then you have to go to a lower grit. Once you do reach a point at which you have removed all original pitting and scratches, then you move up to the next grit and STAY ON THAT GRIT until you have removed EVERY TRACE of the scratches of the previous grit.
That is the key to progressive sanding. You are wasting your time if you move up on grits too soon. If your 800 grit sanding does not fully remove the 600 grit scratches, then the 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, and 3000 grit sanding was all done for nothing because you failed to stay on the 800 long enough to remove the 600.
Two things to make it go easier:
1. Use a light weight oil (like 3 in 1) and
2. Alternate sanding directions to make it easier to tell when you have removed all of the lower grit scratches. That is, if the 600 is done heel to toe, then do 800 from spine to edge.
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thewatermark (07-29-2010)
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07-28-2010, 11:41 PM #3
Sanding scales? Please do not sand those scales! (It looks like Utopian misread the OP.)
Just get some Novus 1-2-3 (really, you just need #3 and #2) and use a big drop with a paper towel to shine them up. First, #3, then, #2, then just a damp cloth. You can buy it at the Container Store for like $5 each, or on Amazon or whatever.
By the By - All of that sanding is to take a set of scales that have been shaped with rough sandpaper to final polish. What you're doing is hand-buffing out some really minor surface scratches that come from normal wear and tear.
Really, this should get the result you want pretty quickly. 5-10 minutes with no mess. (Though the Novus kinda stinks.)
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thewatermark (07-29-2010)
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07-29-2010, 12:08 AM #4
Thanks i will definitely be getting some of that Novas and see how it turns out, and i will not be sanding the scales then. Oh I found the article where Max talks about it, let me know if i mistaken about him sanding the scales ,
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-original.html Thanks guys !
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07-29-2010, 01:06 AM #5
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Thanked: 3795Yes, once again I am a moron.
I did not notice the word "scales." I'm so used to questions about sanding blades that I only responded to the word "scales."
I apologize.
How, and if, you sand the scales depends on what the scales are made of. Are they the typical translucent yellowish scales? Could you show a picture of them and/or describe them?
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07-29-2010, 01:49 AM #6
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07-29-2010, 04:42 AM #7
I thought you may be referring to the blade too but anywho Utopian's advice holds true whether sanding metal, wood or plastic you must remove the previous grit scratches just hold the oil on the plastic & timber
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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thewatermark (07-29-2010)
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07-29-2010, 04:48 AM #8
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Thanked: 3795Yeah, for scales I would start at a much higher grit. Say 2000 or 3000, whatever the highest grit you have. Try your highest grit first and see how that goes. Odds are you will not need to drop below 2000 for scales.
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thewatermark (07-29-2010)
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07-29-2010, 07:45 AM #9
If you have deep scratches, you will need to drop down further than that, I think. It's not hard to get them shiny again, though. All the acrylic I've worked with, which isn't a ton but still a decent bit, can be shined up after sanding (up to 1500 for me) with emery compound on a wheel of some kind (dremel or buffer).
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07-29-2010, 08:41 AM #10
Re-reading the OP. The scales are in "great condition" but not shiny.
I'll +1 the Novus 1,2,3 system for a great shine.The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.