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Thread: How to get a satin finish

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    If you happen to drink wine, or know someone who does, a wine cork is a pretty good diameter for use as a razor sanding block.

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    Diederik (02-10-2011)

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    Senior Member Wintchase's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fdennis View Post
    Thanks for your reply, Shooter. I am well aware of the hazards of using a buffer, but it never hurts to have reminders. I tried a tumbler, but in my opinion it just didn't work for me. However, I may have started with the wrong media. I started with RCBS Formula 1, rather than straight walnut. Nevertheless, I'm going to put the blade back in for a while and see what happens.

    I have gotten satin finish from the car rubbing compound "red container" and walnut

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    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    If you happen to drink wine, or know someone who does, a wine cork is a pretty good diameter for use as a razor sanding block.

    I must be drinking the wrong stuff, everything I buy has that fancy twist off cap.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2sharp View Post
    I must be drinking the wrong stuff, everything I buy has that fancy twist off cap.
    Kelly, there are other wines besides Thunderbird, Mad Dog 20-20 and Night Train.
    Steel likes this.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  6. #15
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    for mmy belt finishes i use a scotch bright belt lightly loaded with compound (i used to use gator belts then light buff )

    for hand sanded finish i liek 600 grit then a light buff but you got to get all the sanding strokes jsut right to make it look goood

    1200 and a bit of wd40 lettign the paper load a bit can make a great finish as well

    hope that helps

    edit to add making a set of leather backed sanding blocks in the right rad. as the wheels that the blade were ground on (least get it close) will also be a big help on the hand sanded finish
    Last edited by L R Harner; 08-05-2010 at 11:59 AM.

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    Thanks again. I called a seller of polishing equipment (to order buffing wheels for my new buffer) and he recommended 320 grit greaseless compound--which he didn't sell.) I have ordered 400 greaseless from Midway (gun stuff). Should be here any day. I have tried sanding. 600 grit looks the best to me, but it's really hard to get uniforn lines. I'm going to keep experimenting. The look I'm trying to duplicate is the look of a blade with the factory grind marks (fine, shallow, uniform).

  8. #17
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Kelly, there are other wines besides Thunderbird, Mad Dog 20-20 and Night Train.
    Yea you ought to expand your horizons and try the high end stuff like Ripple and Muscatel.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  9. #18
    Irrelevant stimpy52's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Just mail it to a newbie restorer with a buffer and request a mirror finish.
    Problem solved.
    Ouch. that hurt so good.
    Don't get hung up on hanging hairs.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    For Greaseless only, nothing else

    The 320 gives a finish I call a "Working Finish" much like the original factory finishes

    The 600 gives a nice "Satin Finish"

    Following the 600 with a polishing compound and a bit of work will give a "Softened Satin Finish" makes it sorta glow

    Keep in mind the work that you do before the final finish determines the overall final look....

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    baldy (08-06-2010)

  12. #20
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    when i think satin this is what i think

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