Thread: Engraving restore question

Possibilities:
>Gun browning>see blueing without shining before oiling.search threads on patination.
>Gun blueing Both this and the above require a bit of wax or nail polish along the edge to prevent the etch from destroying the cutting edge.
>enamel paint
>Crayon "enamel sticks" used for renewing the markings on precision measuring tools and cameras. Similar to the sticks used to hide screw and nail holes in woodwork. warm the blade first to shaving water temp.

I have used all of them at one time or another.

All of these may or will work and, after curing/drying/setting, they may be removed from the surface with micro-mesh abrasive sheet of 6000-12000 grit and water with a drop of soap/detergent to allow the removed darkener to flow free of the surface.
~Richard
edit:
The reason for the abrasive paper is that it will not enter and scoop out the material in the etching or stampings. Any soft material will enter the fine depressions and remove most of the filler material.

Gun blueing works but it will fade away sooner or later as you use your razor. It is the same with other chemicals as well.

Once you have polished the blade, make sure you've cleaned the bottom of the engraving as well. Do not touch the engraving with your fingers after you've cleaned it. You can use some heavy cleaner (brake cleaner etc) to remove all the grease from the engraving.
Add gun blueing (etc) very carefully with some extra fine hobby paintbrush. Try to add it into bottom of the engraving only. Let it dry and clean/polish the blade carefully by hands only using little metal polish or wax. If you polish it with some electric fast rpm gizmo then the color will be gone.