Thread: alternatives to wipe on poly

I am not having great luck with the process of using wipe on poly to finish. I am not sure if I am to "coat" the scale almost like a "Wet" look, or if I am to rub it on (not rubbing in) just thin coats on. Also when I sand after letting dry for 24 hours I use 800 grit and it seems to take off what I coated. Is it suppose to take off most of the finish and leave little? I have also tried 1500 grit micromesh and same results. Is there an easier way? Soaking it in tung oil sounds a heck of a lot easier.

Finishing wood is an art...

The first thing to learn though is what finishes go with what woods, and the use of Acetone, and Mineral Spirits, and what a wash coat is and how to make and use one...
How to use a Sanding Sealer on the more advanced woods will help too..

My advice is start with really easy woods to finish...

Olivewood
Yellowheart
Purpleheart

These are very easy to get really good results with the wipe on poly...

I was having the same problem of my fine grits taking the coating off the rosewood I'm working on. Someone suggested to me to go use #0000 fine steel wool. I'll suggest the same to you, I have been using it between coats and it really makes the wood shine. It seems to remove any gunky extra buildup, but it doesn't strip off all the poly like the sandpaper.

It is also dirt cheap, like 3 bucks at home depot.

800 will eat your lunch if you let it, but it shouldn't strip off all the finish by a long shot... a lighter touch sanding may be a good idea.

Glen has you covered, though, with his post.

With sanding sealers make sure they are compatible with the finish. I had a lot of trouble with poly at first (and still occasionally do). I find myself favoring one finish or another for periods of time, therefore I will not suggest an alternative. Spend some time playing with poly though, the benefits balance after a while.

-G