Thread: Teak

So, I decided to slice into a bunch of teak that I was turning slide whistles out of for my daughter. I am not having trouble finishing it, but rather deciding on a finish. I know a lot is personal preference, but I get bored using the same finishes over and over. I own an assassin's array of finishes, but cannot decide. I am just curious what you would choose if you had near unlimited number of finishes to choose from.

-G

It would depend on what I used the teak for. A knife handle for instance I would use a boiled linseed/beeswax mixture to finish it...Scales for a razorI would perhaps use a clear coat for the extracare free moisture protection.


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

It would depend on what I used the teak for. A knife handle for instance I would use a boiled linseed/beeswax mixture to finish it...Scales for a razorI would perhaps use a clear coat for the extracare free moisture protection.


Mick

Its for a razor. and its one of mine so I don't mind the trouble of keeping it dry, but then again I don't need a dozen razors that all need special care.

-G

For myself I would rub in a paste of Boiled linseed and beeswax using a little hairdryer heat to warm the wood first and then to help with the initial application prior to assembly with a blade. Followed by the occassional re-application and buff with a bit of terry towelling or flannel cloth when it starts to lose it's sheen.


Mick

Originally Posted by MickR

...using a little hairdryer heat to warm the wood first...

I'm a dope. Being in Arizona, most of the year I place outside in the sun, and in cool times near a space heater. Your simple process will give me a little more control, although I'll still need to be aware of ambient temp during application.

All your aiming for with the application of the heat is to open the pores of the wood a little, that way it will absorb the wax more. If you see it seemingly bubbling out, take away the heat, yer over doin' it. I've used the same treatment for an old .303 Lee Enfield rifle stock I refurbished and a nearly all of the knives I've made where I used natural timber (most of them) to haft them.


Mick

I think I will do a wax/oil for one. By the time I got done last night I cut 5 sets of scales out of teak. I generally don't like oil finishes, but for an oily wood like teak it may be the best idea. I just got a sample of epoxy from a new company, I may try it. This one will be a little less expensive and it is supposed to be easier to mix thoroughly. We'll see.

-G

The heat, then finish method works well with many finishes. The heated wood will drive volatiles to the outer surface and the finish will cure faster.

"French Finish'" a very durable finish using boiled linseed oil and orange shellac.. I used it for gun stocks. It would work well for razor scales. Make a small pad of twisted "T" shirt material and dip into to shellac. Then onto the linseed oil. Rub the result into the wood like "spit shining" shoes. Most purchased "boiled" linseed oil is really oil with chemical driers. So assure that you have the real thing. Some artist's' supply houses have the real deal. You have to read the label carefully!

Real Walnut oil works well if it is fresh. At fine woodworking stores. Also available mixed with beeswax for finishing. Mahoney's worked well for my coffee accessories. It is usable for food contact with the finish, like salad bowls. Again, some brands have chemicals to make the oil dry. Pure is better if fresh.

Just a reminder, teak is a wood that many folks develop an allergy to. So a good finish is necessary. Many tropical woods have a natural composition that includes a bug killer. Some folks have a problem with walnut.
~Richard