Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: Teak

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member deighaingeal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Yakima, Wa
    Posts
    1,955
    Thanked: 494

    Default Teak

    So, I decided to slice into a bunch of teak that I was turning slide whistles out of for my daughter. I am not having trouble finishing it, but rather deciding on a finish. I know a lot is personal preference, but I get bored using the same finishes over and over. I own an assassin's array of finishes, but cannot decide. I am just curious what you would choose if you had near unlimited number of finishes to choose from.

    -G

  2. #2
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Brisbane/Redcliffe, Australia
    Posts
    6,380
    Thanked: 983

    Default

    It would depend on what I used the teak for. A knife handle for instance I would use a boiled linseed/beeswax mixture to finish it...Scales for a razorI would perhaps use a clear coat for the extracare free moisture protection.


    Mick

  3. #3
    Senior Member deighaingeal's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Yakima, Wa
    Posts
    1,955
    Thanked: 494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MickR View Post
    It would depend on what I used the teak for. A knife handle for instance I would use a boiled linseed/beeswax mixture to finish it...Scales for a razorI would perhaps use a clear coat for the extracare free moisture protection.


    Mick
    Its for a razor. and its one of mine so I don't mind the trouble of keeping it dry, but then again I don't need a dozen razors that all need special care.

    -G

  4. #4
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Brisbane/Redcliffe, Australia
    Posts
    6,380
    Thanked: 983

    Default

    For myself I would rub in a paste of Boiled linseed and beeswax using a little hairdryer heat to warm the wood first and then to help with the initial application prior to assembly with a blade. Followed by the occassional re-application and buff with a bit of terry towelling or flannel cloth when it starts to lose it's sheen.


    Mick

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to MickR For This Useful Post:

    dirtychrome (09-20-2010), Geezer (09-20-2010)

  6. #5
    Senior Member dirtychrome's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    652
    Thanked: 408

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MickR View Post
    ...using a little hairdryer heat to warm the wood first...
    I'm a dope. Being in Arizona, most of the year I place outside in the sun, and in cool times near a space heater. Your simple process will give me a little more control, although I'll still need to be aware of ambient temp during application.

  7. #6
    May your bone always be well buried MickR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Brisbane/Redcliffe, Australia
    Posts
    6,380
    Thanked: 983

    Default

    All your aiming for with the application of the heat is to open the pores of the wood a little, that way it will absorb the wax more. If you see it seemingly bubbling out, take away the heat, yer over doin' it. I've used the same treatment for an old .303 Lee Enfield rifle stock I refurbished and a nearly all of the knives I've made where I used natural timber (most of them) to haft them.


    Mick
    Last edited by MickR; 09-20-2010 at 09:01 AM.

  8. The Following User Says Thank You to MickR For This Useful Post:

    dirtychrome (09-21-2010)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •