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  1. #1
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Default If you need wood blanks for scales.

    If anyone wants to make their own scales but does not have the tools to resaw and plane their own wood or can't find a source for suitable blanks then I can provide some in small quantities. The woods are from my stock, picked for their grain and color for my own use.

    If this fits your bill then thank Joe Chandler. Until he brought this problem to my attention I did not even consider it as a hurdle to scale making. Trying to locate a source I realized that what is available is not aimed at straight razor scales. I guess there is not enough demand yet.

    All the blanks are going to be about 5/32" +- a smidgen and 1 1/8" x 6 1/4". These should be more than big enough to scale the largest standard blade. You will have enough wiggle room in all dimensions. A set contains two blanks of which none are spare.

    The faces are going to be planed and the sides rough cut on a table saw or a band saw.

    For the perfectionists out there who strive to attain a higher order (read if you are anal) I can provide facing grain sets for an extra $5. These are pieces that were facing each other before resawing and planing. What this gives is an almost identical grain pattern for both scale pieces. If you do your shaping right then the razor will have matching grain pattern on both sides. Some woods don't have a distinct grain pattern so it won't make much difference. Only offered to those that really insist.

    Shipping is $5 for Canada and US. I can ship 4 sets in a buble envelope for the same price.

    Quick price chart: Facing grain add $5 if you really want it for all except African Ebony. For that wood the facing grain set will cost you an extra $20. Why, because it is very black making it very difficult to see the grain. Matching it takes an extra effort and hence the extra cost.

    These woods I stock for myself so can probably ship the next day. If I am out I will let you know and restock within a day or two.


    Cocobolo - $10 (dark brown/black)

    Kingwood - $8 (brown/violet)

    Purpleheart - $8 (purple/burgundy)

    Yellowheart - $8 (bright yellow)

    African Padauk - $8 (bright orange)

    These I don't stock but would not mind getting some so if you ask I might go and buy them.

    Bloodwood - $10 (dark red)

    Gabon Ebony - $20 (dark black )

    Ideally sand the wood to at least 1200 or 1500 if you want to bring out the beauty of the grain. Many wood grains show perlescense when sanded to this high a grit. I also like to choose my wood specifically for this perlescent quality so if you follow this advice you may be pleasantly surprised by grain's play in the light.

    Note on Cocobolo, its dust is found to be a serious irritant and lung clogger. The wood is very oily. So in Bill's words wear a dust mask if cocobolo gets within a two feet of sandpaper. Other than that it is a great wood for scales and the easiest one to finish for beginners because other than sanding and buffing no other finish is required.

    The rest need some form of sealer. My preference is Polimerized Tung Oil Sealer. It is a penetrating sealer and brings out the rich color and grain of the wood like no other finish. I apply it after sanding the wood up to 220 to 400 grit. Then when it dries sand to 1000 and apply another coat. Then sand to 2000 and buff. May need more coats depending on the wood.

    A good high gloss finish is Cyano Acrylate or CA or crazy glue. Sanded and buffed it has a clear mirror finish. You still have to sand the wood to a high grit and apply several coats of CA with light sanding between coats. I like to use both. Seal first to bring out the color and grain, sand then apply CA for a high gloss, durable finish.

    I can also provide Snakewood which is as expensive as it is beautiful. If enough people are interested (10 sets or more) I'll consider getting some and resawing it. Expect the cost to be in the $40 to $50 dollar range per set. Can't know exactly until I buy it and resaw it and see the yield.
    Last edited by vladsch; 05-26-2006 at 01:59 AM.

  2. #2
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    I know that a lot of you are gonna be smart enough to buy a few sets at these great prices. Even if you save them for later. I can't see Vlad wanting to do this mundane task for your benefit forever... Pretty soon he'll be too tied up with restorations and boxes.

  3. #3
    Super Shaver xman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vladsch
    The faces are going to be planed and the sides rough cut on a table saw or a band saw. ... If you do your shaping right then the razor will have matching grain pattern on both sides.
    I guess these guys won't be shaped like scales then. Do you have any power tools for the job and how much more would that cost? Finishing by hand is something I might be prepared to do, but shaping by hand sounds like a lot of work.

    X

  4. #4
    Vlad the Impaler LX_Emergency's Avatar
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    I would like to try....but what do I do to get a nice set of scales? They still have to be sawed out I suppose? and then sanded polished and drilled?

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by LX_Emergency
    I would like to try....but what do I do to get a nice set of scales? They still have to be sawed out I suppose? and then sanded polished and drilled?
    Hello? Hello? At $12 a set, I was personally hoping Vlad would pop on in over at my place and slap them on a blade for me too.

    You know I'm just messin' with ya, LX I mean no harm...

    Finishing by hand is something I might be prepared to do, but shaping by hand sounds like a lot of work
    Not as tough as you may think, X. A couple of $6 files (one round and one half round) and a hobby coping saw is all you need. Along with some sandpaper. After all, it's that zen thing about making a set for yourself that makes it rewarding. The toughest part is actually slabbing them out to a uniform thickness and that's the part Vlad has done already.

  6. #6
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    The shaping would be part of the "making scales" effort. The shape is not standard and you have to decide what you want it to be.

    It should not take long or be expensive to shape. Just need to invest into a coping saw and cut them out by hand, I would guess 15 minutes. I used one since I was about 6, today I have a scroll saw which is a big boy's, powered version of the coping saw. Does not take less time just less physical effort. I find that the coping saw does offer better control than the scroll saw so you can make a tighter cut.

    The coping saw at Lee Valley is $15 plus $7 for 12 blades.



    A scroll saw is about $100 to $200 depending on the model. If you are going to spend money get a belt sander for $80 before spending $100 on a scroll saw. With a 50 grit belt it will sand the rough outline faster than you can cut it out with the saw and reduce your hand sanding to 400 grit and above because the standard belts go up to 220.

    Bill is right, I am offering this to give those that want to give scale making a try and an opportunity to do it without having to spend a lot of time searching for a source or invest into resawing and planing their own stock. I am not really equipped to do production runs and that is why I stressed small quantities.

  7. #7
    Vlad the Impaler LX_Emergency's Avatar
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    I think i would very much like to try and make a set of scales out of the cocobolo. Sign me up.

  8. #8
    Senior Member garythepenman's Avatar
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    Hey Vlad, you making room for Fiddleback Kauri ?

    Gary

  9. #9
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    More info on making scales for those that have never done it. I stick the two blanks together with double sided tape. Carpet tape will work but don't use too wide a strip. 1/4" at the most. Otherwise, it will stick so hard you won't be able to separate the scales when done or it may even rip out a chunk of wood from the underside.

    I do all the shaping and sanding to 320 or 400 grit while they are stuck together. That way any change in shape because of the sanding will be matched for both. I also drill all the holes while they are attached with the tape.

    I only separate them for the Tung Oil sealing. Use a carpet knife or any other stiff blade knife and carefuly cut them apart from one end. Make sure you don't slice yourself and cut into the wood while doing it.

    Peel off any remaining tape and use a solvent to wash off the left over adhesive.

    You will get perfectly matched halves for your efforts.

  10. #10
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by garythepenman
    Hey Vlad, you making room for Fiddleback Kauri ?

    Gary
    If you can get it in quantity, I have a spare room for it. The kids, being young, don't really need their own rooms.

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