Thread: Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover

Quick question.

I've read on here that using Naval Jelly is bad for the blades.

I was wondering if anyone had tried using Birchwood Casey's blue and rust remover?

I've been using Gunzillia to remove some of the rust on a couple blades, but I've got one with etching that has a heavier stain, and was thinking about the blue and rust remover.



Any thoughts?

There is not really a problem with any of these, they just don't get to the true problem, or create worse ones....

Cleaning is three fold, (if you want clean bright steel)

First the active rust has to be gone, this is actually very easy to do with just a single edge razor blade, you just scrape it off

Second is the Black rust /Devil's spit/Spider rust, that is under there, that usually goes deeper and leaves pits behind...
The chemicals can sometimes get into that and even lift some of it BUT they usually do even more damage... At this time is where most people do one of two things, they either say to themselves "Huh it's an old razor and I like the aged look" or they get aggressive, and use some type of sanding to take all that off, and leave behind clean steel...

The third step is polishing... Many razors only got a satin finish some a higher gloss satin and some a mirror, LOL I just read the other day on an un-named forum that Hollow Grind razors never got a mirror finish somebody should tell TI that Anyway how far you polish is normally up to the razor...
A mirror or near mirror does help resist rust better and is a cleaner surface but that is your choice, and up to your abilities...

Edit:
I am only refering to blades that are free of the scales.....

Thanks gunsmith.


I was thinking the patina look might go well with the scales I’m making for one of them (the one with “Sterling Warranted” on the tang. Don’t know what this razor is), and was concerned about how to approach the Joseph Elliot’s “Perfection” etching. The Joseph Rogers (at least that’s what I think it is) I don’t care either way right now, and that’s the least problematic.

Here’s pics in case it helps.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Joseph Elliot’s “Perfection”


Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Sterling Warranted


Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Scales


I don’t have much experience with the buffer, but have tinkered with it, and I tend to error on the side of safety and go slow with new things like that. I also have a blade or two to practice on.

The only one I don’t have a concern with is the Joseph Rogers “Diamond Edge”. I’ve been applying Gunzillia to it over the past couple weeks, and it has been getting better, as it started out with a dull gray patina, and is not starting to hint at a reflection. I also have a Bengall that has some stain that I’ve been working on with Flitz. Most all of them have rust on the tail of the tang, but I don’t mind buffing that.

I was hoping the Blue & Rust Remover would take care of the other two blades. Are you saying I should still go for the mirror polish on them?

It is really hard to tell by pics, it really is... My fingernails tell me the most about how bad razors are

I don't see any bad problems on any of these blades, The Sterling Warranted has a bit of black on the back side by the spine, that probably goes deeper... Keep in mind once you start it is hard to stop

The Perfection I would toss in my tumbler for a week and it would come out like new....Except those pits at the toe where the scales hit and have left moisture for years see there are all these little spots that crop up...


The hollow should shine right up...


I personally don't put anything but bright shiny steel on my face, some say that is because I am a Razor Restorer, I say that is what made me a Razor Restorer

Okay.

I'm thinking of using Flitz on the "Perfection". Would that be going slow (trying to be careful with the etching) compared to the buffer, or is it going to be more abrasive? (using the Beal compounds white, and red/brown from Woodcraft. An black from Harbor Freight for coarse stuff). My thinking is that Flitz won't be so harsh on the etching, and that I've got plenty of time to do it with.

Again
The fingernail speaks the most here too, can you dig a nail into the etching, is it a stamp/engraving, or is it an actual etch, on top of the blade ????

In the blade should be fine, on the blade will go bye bye fast

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Again
The fingernail speaks the most here too, can you dig a nail into the etching, is it a stamp/engraving, or is it an actual etch, on top of the blade ????

In the blade should be fine, on the blade will go bye bye fast

The etching is so shallow it's hard to say. My fingernail barely catches on it. I think it's in rather than on.

I took the plunge and tried flitz. It appears to be okay, so it's in.

Thanks again for your help.

It might just be an optical illusion (or it could be me- I had surgery for kidney stones yesterday and I am pretty well medicated right now) but it appears to me that the Sterling might have just a bit of a frown.

Originally Posted by Lazarus

It might just be an optical illusion (or it could be me- I had surgery for kidney stones yesterday and I am pretty well medicated right now) but it appears to me that the Sterling might have just a bit of a frown.

Well Mitch,

I don't know what you consider, "a bit of" a frown, but it definitely has a frown. So much so, that one doesn't even have to look at the blade, since it shows in the hone wear.