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Thread: Win some, Lose some
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11-17-2010, 04:30 PM #21
I have put the blade in water with the tang sticking out and heated it up with a propane torch till the metal turns from brown-blue-gray, let air cool then bend in vise.
I have also clamped the razor in a big vise with the tang sticking out and used the vise as a heat sink. The advantage here you can bend when still hot.
Mike Blue and Butch were the ones that told me these methods.
Charlie
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to spazola For This Useful Post:
baldy (11-18-2010), cpcohen1945 (11-18-2010)
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12-01-2010, 09:33 PM #22
Well here is some straightening at the Dovo factory:
snipped from this video at 1:50:
YouTube - Making DOVO Straight Razors
12-01-2010, 09:40 PM
#23
Not that I would know any different, but I read this at Martin's site:
Due to a new hardening process the back of the razor is a bit "softer" than the edge. Thus is giving the razor's back more flexibility and more sharpness and shaves to the edge.
The First Thiers Issard Silverwing LE
12-01-2010, 09:55 PM
#24
- Join Date
- Jun 2010
- Posts
- 30
Thanked: 4
Old school blacksmiths used the color rings in order to tell what type of microstructure they had on the ends of axes, pick axes, etc... Yellow = matensitic structures (hard) and blue = pearlite structures (soft). This was done without the use of microscopes, micro-hardness machines, tensile machines, etc. Pretty incredible what they people where able to achieve with the use of heat, hammer, water, and the naked eye.
The Following User Says Thank You to lincoln233 For This Useful Post:
spazola (12-08-2010)
12-06-2010, 06:06 PM
#25
You may be a redneck if you save with a razor containing JB weld, Duck Tape, coat hanger welds and spray paint.
The Following User Says Thank You to cannonfodder For This Useful Post:
Glenn24 (12-06-2010)