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  1. #1
    Junior Member messer's Avatar
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    Default Is it possible to use this grinder as a buffer?

    Hey! I've found such old bench grinder in my basement
    It wasn't used too much, my father bought it in some unexplainable GAS rush, somewhat like 13 years ago

    Wheels are 5", 2800-3400 RPM (but it hasn't any speed knob, only on-off switch).



    Is it possible to use this grinder as a buffer, after removing covers and mounting buffing wheels with greaseless compound to restore "eBay razors"? In a way similiar to Undream, in his restoration video series?
    Wouldn't it be too fast for buffing razors?
    I'm very "safety first" guy and I'm concerned about small space for manovouring razor. What do you think guys?

    I also own such Bosch PBS 75A belt sander with built-in vacuum and filter (it sucks very well):



    Both of these tools can be easely mounted to my special workbench.

    Is it worth buying buffing wheels for that bench grinder, if my goal is to restore stained razors, or should I first buy a real buffer?
    Last edited by messer; 12-08-2010 at 07:48 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth hi_bud_gl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by messer View Post
    Hey! I've found such old bench grinder in my basement
    It wasn't used too much, my father bought it in some unexplainable GAS rush, somewhat like 13 years ago

    Wheels are 5", 2800-3400 RPM (but it hasn't any speed knob, only on-off switch).



    Is it possible to use this grinder as a buffer, after removing covers and mounting buffing wheels with greaseless compound to restore "eBay razors"? In a way similiar to Undream, in his restoration video series?
    Wouldn't it be too fast for buffing razors?
    I'm very "safety first" guy and I'm concerned about small space for manovouring razor. What do you think guys?

    I also own such Bosch PBS 75A belt sander with filter:



    Both of these tools can be easely mounted to my special workbench.

    Is it worth buying buffing wheels for that bench grinder, if my goal is to restore stained razors, or should I first buy a real buffer?
    Sorry if you can take cover out i think you can. with covers on it will be uncomfortable.

  3. #3
    The Shell Whisperer Maximilian's Avatar
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    Moving this thread to workshop where you'll get more feedback....

    əˌfisyəˈnädō | pərˈfekSH(ə)nəst | eS'prəSSo | düvəl ləvər

  4. #4
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Yes but like you already stated you are going to have to strip off all the SAFETY guards...

    Also real buffers have longer shafts to keep the work away from the motor body.. You can adjust the speed by using smaller wheels, but using smaller wheels on the grinder can cause problems because of the limited working room available...

    Can you make it work ??? probably, will it be optimum??? probably not

  5. #5
    Junior Member messer's Avatar
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    Without covers:



    Could you explain Glen, what's the difference between my grinder and this 6" Buffer apart from shaft length?
    I've seen that it is popular among SRP users.
    But then again, it is a 3600 RPM monster anyway...
    ...
    Ok, this might sound a bit funny, but I've found (I'm not lazy! ) your great post, and now I understand everything. Thank you Glen
    So the long shaft is indeed a really important part of a good buffer.

    I think it's worth trying with this green grinder, if it will fail my expectations I'll buy some machine with longer shaft.

    Are there more effective methods of blade cooling than dipping it into the water?

    I want to protect myself (especially my hands, I love playing music). While there's no discussion that tight apron, goggles and respirator should be worn without exceptions while buffing, some people say, that it's better to avoid gloves, because they might be caught by the wheel and pull our fingers(?).

    (Thank you Max for moving my post, I thought that I ought to post in beginners section at the beginning.)
    Last edited by messer; 12-08-2010 at 11:57 PM.

  6. #6
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    You can get some clearance from the grinder by using tapered spindles. They come in L&R hand threads so can be added to either side of the grinder. Buffs go on & off easily tho I recommend buffs with plastic reinforced centres for any heavy work. For light buffing of plastics etc, plain old loose leaf mops are fine but I soak the centres in Shellac anyway for a bit of sturdiness.
    I use from 6" down to 2" on mine. No dramas.
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    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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    messer (12-14-2010)

  8. #7
    Junior Member messer's Avatar
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    Thanks Onimaru for the idea, I've found one dealer of such spindles in Poland

    I have another question
    What's the reason of using greaseless compounds by SRP members? Is there something wrong about grease-based compounds?
    In Poland greaseless compounds are nonexistent...

  9. #8
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm incorrect, but by my limited expereience the greaseless compounds have more coarse grits available & generate less heat. HEAT KILLS RAZORS I personally use both, greaseless for rough work and the typical rouges to finish up (grease based). Remember to change buffing pads with each change of compound. I personally keep mine individually stored in gallon zip-loc type bags with either grit or color written on the buff.
    Hope this helps,
    Scott
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  10. #9
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Some more info here
    Greaseless Compound
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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