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12-18-2010, 04:27 AM #1
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 67
Thanked: 4An Epxeriment With Gunzilla To Remove Tarnish/Patina, and Mild Pitting
Two months agao I submitted a thread questioning the idea of using Birchwood Casey’s Rust and Gun Blue Remover to remove pitting and patina from blades.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...t-remover.html
At that time I had already started the habit of wiping any blades that need cleaning up with Gunzilla. In the short period of time I’ve been using it for guns (as well as a corroded wiper blade on the minivan), I’ve seen good results, so I thought it was worth a try on razors. I originally started it with (what I believe to be a) Joseph Rodgers & Son’s, but didn’t document it.
In the time period since the above thread, I’ve tried the rust and blue remover with mixed results, and continued the Gunzilla on other blades. One of them is the Joseph Elliot’s “Perfection” from the above thread.
In that thread I stated that I did try some Flitz on the blade, but it should be noted that it was a very small portion around the small figure preceding the “P”, and not anywhere else. Everything else as far as cleaning up this blade is due strictly to Gunzilla (it’s even starting to show some mirror). I’ll probably try my best to finish up with Flitz as I’d like to get it mirror, but as of now I think the Gunzilla definitely did a good job considering all I did was wipe it on with my fingers, and rub on occasion.
Before:
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Follow up in next Post.
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12-18-2010, 04:29 AM #2
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- Sep 2010
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- 67
Thanked: 4The following pics were taken after treating with Gunzilla. Just about every day at first, but not so much anymore.
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I hope the pics are good enough to show that the Gunzilla did a good job of removing much of the patina, and even clean up some of the mild pitting. I don’t know how efficient it is, but considering it’s probably a mild process, I think it worked well. I’ll still want to polish with Flitz (unless someone has a better suggestion for getting mirror without loosing the etching), and hope it turns out.
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12-18-2010, 07:42 AM #3
Flitz worked well for me by itself.
Water spot removal ? - home of the famous Belgian Coticule Whetstone
Louis.
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12-18-2010, 08:18 AM #4
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 67
Thanked: 4Thanks.
Yeah, I did that one with my first restore.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...t-restore.html
Took some time, but I was and am happy with it.
The reason I tried this the way I did was because I didn't want to go to an abrasive until necessary because I wanted to use as little of it as possible on the etching. The Gunzilla did a fine job of that, but there's still plenty of work for the flitz.
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12-18-2010, 01:17 PM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Posts
- 1,898
Thanked: 995+1 for Gunzilla. I've been using it for about a year now and it does lift rust. Before that I was a big fan of G96. Debulking the crust means less work cleaning the base metal.
“Nothing discloses real character like the use of power. Most people can bear adversity. But if you wish to know what a man really is, give him power.” R.G.Ingersoll
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12-19-2010, 05:05 PM #6
- Join Date
- Sep 2010
- Posts
- 67
Thanked: 4All I did was put a generous drop on the blade, and stat wiping back and forth with my thumb and index finger (on on each side of the blade). I'd do it in a way that worked the Gunzilla to the other side of the blade so I could work both sides at once. I've been doing this with most of my project blades, and sometimes I can even see the solvent start to turn a rust color from the stuff it loosens.
What's shown in the pics above is just the result of Gunzilla being gently worked in by my fingers.