Thread: How to do a duck inlay transfer

I have a Duck that I want to make some new scales for, but want to do an inlay transfer of the inlay. I'm planning on using G10 for the new scales and have seen quite a few restorations successfully showcasing a nice transfer of the inlay.

It seems the inlay is quite etched into the old scales. My questions are: How do you removing this and how do you attach them to the new scales? Epoxy then sand?

Thanks all for suggestions.

I've never done it, but I don't think the inlay is removed from the scale. Instead, I believe the scales are dissolved from the inlay with acetone.

Here's an older thread by our very own G-Brother and Floppyshoes that should help you forward. Acetone is your friend for removing those bolsters/inlay.

Originally Posted by Maximilian

Here's an older thread by our very own G-Brother and Floppyshoes that should help you forward. Acetone is your friend for removing those bolsters/inlay.

Thanks Max! That was most helpful. Now another question - Do you completely sand the G10 to say 2000 grit, then put on the inlay, or put the inlay on before sanding?

As Max said, acetone is your friend, along with crystal clear epoxy. Something else would be to take the time and get the brass fitted well. I have done a couple transfers my self, just take your time with it.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-13-16ths.html


http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-re-scale.html

Originally Posted by ThePhill

As Max said, acetone is your friend, along with crystal clear epoxy. Something else would be to take the time and get the brass fitted well. I have done a couple transfers my self, just take your time with it.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...-13-16ths.html


http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-re-scale.html

Thanks! I have a dubl duck SatinWedge that I want to do this on. Scales are a bit warped and I think they'd look better in Jade G10 anyway. Will give this a go in probably a couple weeks as I'm about to move and have too much packing to do.

Just getting all the info I need to be prepared.

It takes some finesse to do. The inlay isn't much thicker than aluminum foil and in handling it can deform faster than you can say quack.

Originally Posted by thebigspendur

It takes some finesse to do. The inlay isn't much thicker than aluminum foil and in handling it can deform faster than you can say quack.

+1,000,000

The heat of curing epoxy can warp them. Tacking them down with CA helps a lot if the material underneath allows. If you do it bit by bit and hold the metal down with a pin while the CA sets you can get it nice and flush. Glen has also mentioned hammering the inlay on a bit to help set it into wood (if that's what you happen to be working with).

If I were in your shoes, I'd pick up a junky set of scales with inlay from a totally scrapped eBay blade and practice on that first. Avoid "learning" on nice things.

Originally Posted by floppyshoes

+1,000,000

The heat of curing epoxy can warp them. Tacking them down with CA helps a lot if the material underneath allows. If you do it bit by bit and hold the metal down with a pin while the CA sets you can get it nice and flush. Glen has also mentioned hammering the inlay on a bit to help set it into wood (if that's what you happen to be working with).

If I were in your shoes, I'd pick up a junky set of scales with inlay from a totally scrapped eBay blade and practice on that first. Avoid "learning" on nice things.

I was planning on using G10. Since I don't plan on doing this for awhile maybe I'll take a browse on eBay and find some broken blade in scales that have inlays to buy and practice on.

Thanks for the tips!

How do you rid of the CA that oozes out from the inlay once set? Can you just buff that off or do you need to carefully use something like "Goof Off" to remove it?

Originally Posted by Harvitz81

I was planning on using G10. Since I don't plan on doing this for awhile maybe I'll take a browse on eBay and find some broken blade in scales that have inlays to buy and practice on.

Thanks for the tips!

How do you rid of the CA that oozes out from the inlay once set? Can you just buff that off or do you need to carefully use something like "Goof Off" to remove it?

I sand 400, 600, 1000 then 2000 to polish the brass and remove excess CA. You then clean with solvent and topcoat (I prefer polyurethane for this, but many advocate epoxy). The topcoat should seal the brass so it doesn't tarnish, it will also bond to the CA and make it invisible if you were careful enough not to cloud it up when gluing the brass down. I don't recommend buffing until you have a decent topcoat down, wheels will catch on the corners of the brass and rip all your hard work right off the scales.