Thread: Clear coating of natural scale materials

Originally Posted by onimaru55

I'm just wondering why you would need to coat these materials. Pretty sure the ones I've seen in the past weren't coated.
This guy used to do a few : http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-finished.html

I am starting to understand why my post was not answered! YES I do agree that natural scales generally are not coated. I am making some scales from old bits of ivory and pearl and want to coat them for consistancy and maximum shine! Many thanks for your response and a great question as well.

it'll probably work unless the coefficients for thermal expansion of the coating and the material are very different and then the stresses that are generated can cause some funky stuff.
i think a lot of the appeal of the natural materials is that they're very nice to the touch, if it' just for the looks there are probably better options that could coated.

but just experiment and see what happens.

I would politely suggest that you do not bother coating ivory, bone or horn with anything. All three of these materials have a proven ability to withstand the centuries when kept in a reasonably good environment. Additionally, each of the three is prized for its own, unique appearance. Slopping on a shiny coat of something will just degrade their appearance and worth. They don't really need any 'improvement'.

These are all natural materials, each of which will polish up quite well in its own right as long as you use the right polishing methods and/or materials.

A good example of this is old horn scales. After long abuse they resemble nothing so much as dirty plastic or even wood, but my experience is that if you take them to a buffing wheel the shine usually returns very easily. Properly polished horn has a depth and beauty that goes beyond what plastic can offer.

Originally Posted by ignatz

I would politely suggest that you do not bother coating ivory, bone or horn with anything. All three of these materials have a proven ability to withstand the centuries when kept in a reasonably good environment. Additionally, each of the three is prized for its own, unique appearance. Slopping on a shiny coat of something will just degrade their appearance and worth. They don't really need any 'improvement'.

Agreed again. I have actually never coated any scales with exception of wood. This is certainly not the "holy grail" of scales.Rather a custom job made of vintage parts. I am constructing them of broken bits and am striving to stabilize as well as fill in minute gaps, level the scales in effect. Thank You

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I understand and agree with you.But, what if it WERE coated? I am finding out!

Ivory has been carved and used for centuries uncoated. So what is the reason to coat it? It is a natural material and needs to breath and over time will develop a patina. If it's shine you want get some cape cod polishing cloths and some elbow grease and you can make them shine like a diamond.

I use walnut oil. It's not left on so it doesn't really soak in. It just hits the very outer layer. You quickly wipe it off.

I work with Ivory on a daily basis,it has to breath or it will crack.
The coating of choice is mineral oil.

Okay, gents! I understand we do not coat natural stuff! I have a custom made abalone/pearl I got from a man in AU years ago. He told me he slathered it with CA. It is still looking good, so I wondered! I would like to thank all who responded for being so candid on the subject and I agree for the most part. I do have a chunk of broken Ivory which I am going to coat with CA for the 3rd and final time tomorrow. If anyone is interested, I will post a photo. I like to recycle broken stuff and was looking for a method to "bring it all together" so to speak. I will be able to give it many temperature cycles and see how it holds up. Thanks once again.

I look forward to find out what you learn, and see how you are able to recycle those broken pieces.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

I work with Ivory on a daily basis,it has to breath or it will crack.
The coating of choice is mineral oil.

When keeping it open to breath, keeping one side exposed and one side covered would be ok?

Thinking of a piano key as an example where only one side is left to breath. If it is important to breath, would think inbound of scales left uncovered would be fine then.

Originally Posted by dirtychrome

I look forward to find out what you learn, and see how you are able to recycle those broken pieces.

Many thanks! I am trying to form vintage parts and use some modern methods! Your understanding of this project is appreciated. You will recieve the credit due upon my posting it in the resto/custom forum . Thanks!