Thread: Preventing/ Cleaning Pitting

First off, I'm new to all things straight razor. Today I noticed on my blade (which is vintage, not new) that there are a few very tiny pits of rust. The blade itself is in excellent shape and shines like a mirror. Still, when you look really closely you can see several little specks where rust is developing. I always keep it dry and don't store it in a wet environment (like a bathroom for example). This may be a relatively minor thing to worry about, but I want to learn how to clean rust from the blade and also how to prevent it from coming back. After all, a well made razor should last for hundreds of years if well cared for. Is there something that can safely clean and preserve the blade to keep it looking beautiful? What do you guys use to clean your blades?

I'm thinking if it's developing rust then you're not getting it completely dry I dry mine with a towel and store them in the bathroom and have yet to have a problem. Other guys put a light coat of oil on the blade before putting them away too. You may be able to remove it with a simple polish...I use Mothers Mag and Aluminum and a rag. Maybe some pics would help further.

You might be getting a little water from inside the scales after shaving and rinsing the blade off. I have gotten into the habit of taking a paper towel and sliding it between the scales to remove as much water as possible. Then I put a little oil on the razor to prevent rust.

It is much easier to _prevent_ rust, than to _remove_ rust.

After using the razor, and drying it off:

. . . Strop it 10 laps on leather to ensure the edge is dry;

. . . check the inside of the scales for water;

. . . put a light coat of oil on the blade with a piece of tissue -- one drop is more than enough for the whole blade.

Occasionally, put a drop of oil (or less) on the pivot pin.

_Which_ oil you use doesn't seem to matter -- "mineral oil", "baby oil", gun oil, WD-40, Mobil 1 all work for people on this site.

Charles

Don't put wd40 on your blades as the solvent could damage your scales.Camellia oil from SRD is the best stuff to oil your blades with.

Hi there,
I too am a newbie to straights, and I have a similar issue with one of the old razors I bought to practise stropping and honing with.
From the information I have come across in the restoration wiki, it looks like you can use high grit wet&dry sandpaper to sand off the rust spots. I believe 1500 or 2000 grit paper should leave a mirror polish on the blade, but perhaps the big guns here can confirm this.

FYI, my planned maintenance strategy will be to apply a small amount of Tuff-glide to the pivot at regular intervals and Camillia oil to the blade after thoroughly drying the razor after every shave. I chose the Camillia oil for the bulk of the blade because it is natural and edible, so I don't mind if some gets on my skin, and I chose the tuff-glide for the pivot because it's long lasting and penetrating with water displacing properties.

I am keen to know if the experts approve of my ideas ?

Regards,
Ian.

I clean and/or remove rust with some Ballistol on a soft cloth. If that doesn't work, I use it on a slightly abrasive Scotch-Brite pad. If that doesn't work, I use Ballistol and some very fine emery/crocus cloth. After that the grits keep getting bigger.

I also use Ballistol to clean and protect (guns too) since it will emulsify with water. Since I have a lot of it, why not? That isn't important if you get your razors completely dry. Camellia or mineral oil will also work on a dry blade. Many other oils will work ok, too.