Thread: Preventing/ Cleaning Pitting

It is much easier to _prevent_ rust, than to _remove_ rust.

After using the razor, and drying it off:

. . . Strop it 10 laps on leather to ensure the edge is dry;

. . . check the inside of the scales for water;

. . . put a light coat of oil on the blade with a piece of tissue -- one drop is more than enough for the whole blade.

Occasionally, put a drop of oil (or less) on the pivot pin.

_Which_ oil you use doesn't seem to matter -- "mineral oil", "baby oil", gun oil, WD-40, Mobil 1 all work for people on this site.

Charles

Don't put wd40 on your blades as the solvent could damage your scales.Camellia oil from SRD is the best stuff to oil your blades with.

Hi there,
I too am a newbie to straights, and I have a similar issue with one of the old razors I bought to practise stropping and honing with.
From the information I have come across in the restoration wiki, it looks like you can use high grit wet&dry sandpaper to sand off the rust spots. I believe 1500 or 2000 grit paper should leave a mirror polish on the blade, but perhaps the big guns here can confirm this.

FYI, my planned maintenance strategy will be to apply a small amount of Tuff-glide to the pivot at regular intervals and Camillia oil to the blade after thoroughly drying the razor after every shave. I chose the Camillia oil for the bulk of the blade because it is natural and edible, so I don't mind if some gets on my skin, and I chose the tuff-glide for the pivot because it's long lasting and penetrating with water displacing properties.

I am keen to know if the experts approve of my ideas ?

Regards,
Ian.

Never used Tuff-glide but.....anything that is petroleum based or has solvent in it should be avoided as it can damage your scales.Camellia Oil is used and sold by SRD.Lynn and Don are two of the top Honemasters in the straight world and Of course Lynn is the founder of SRP.He sells the stuff for a reason.As for sanding your blades....ask the pro honers on this site before going off inexperienced and taking a chance of wrecking your good blades.READ THE WIKI ! And most important of all Welcome to SRP and have fun as Lynn always says.

Thanks for the sound advice Nightblade. I am even wary of taking sandpaper to my old test razor !

FWIW, it was through one of Lynn's posts that I found out about Camillia oil and it sounds like such a fantastic product that I had to order a bottle from SRD. Of courde, I had to throw in a new razor too, just to make the postage worthwhile. I guess I should say I RAD to throw in an new razor !!
I'm waiting for it to arrive as we speak.

I would most certainly like to know using Tuff-glide can damage the scales.
Apologies to the OP if I am hijacking your thread, but I was just about to post a similar question when I saw your post.

Ian.

I would answer the Tuff-glide question again this way.Straight shaving is a primative yet elegant thing.Grand dad didn't have it and he didn't need it.Keep it primitive and simple and you won't go wrong.The Japanese used Camellia oil on their swords and it didn't let them down.You can make this as high tech and complicated or simple as you wish,but I would opt for low tech simple and IMHO highly effective.

By itself, 2000 grit wet/dry will still leave scratch marks on the blade. When I have had to sand small bit of rust off, and it happened last summer during really humid weather, I did 2000 dry, 2000 lubed with WD40. Then....Maas or Mother's to buff out the tiny leftover scratches.

+1 on the drying advice between the scales too. I leave all my razors in the bathroom, and only need to use the Camellia oil for about 2 weeks during the summer months. Other than that, as long as I take the extra 30 seconds in the morning to ensure the blade, tang, and scales are completely dry......no problems whatsoever.

Different climates do different things though.....my advice may not work in rainy Vancouver.

Good luck,
Maxi