Thread: Bluing Steel

Wow, I go to bed for a few hours and miss a great thread unfolding. I dont have much to add at this point but I will show a couple of pics. The first one is with 2 applications of Birchwood Casey Super Blue, The second was done with Hot Cider Vinegar, which was then neutralised with ammonia.
Grant

I've rust blued a few, and I like both the appearance and the protection the bluing gives. Never cold blued a whole blade, but I have cold blued tangs and such, I think cold bluing is fine for that, and I think it gives some rust protection for the tang. Theres a recipe for a low temp hot blue on here. Never tried that, but others have.

Heres the low temp one--

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...g-recipie.html

I'm going to try that one day.

Thread I started some time back--

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ed-blades.html

As mentioned, biggest problem with rust bluing is cleaning and keeping it clean. You need to sand them to give the rust a place to grab, then completely degrease and handle with gloves until the process is over. Any grease will mess you up, including from fingerprints.

Well, actually, your biggest problem might be humidity if you live someplace where its low. You could build one of those bluing cabinets they talk about, but I'd just do it in the kitchen and boil some water every few hours. Or use a humidifier.

So.... it offers no protection?

I feel that if the surface is all used up it must be harder to penitrate.

That is not to say it should be un-oiled... but maybe a little more lax on it.


I say this because why do you reblue a gun due to wear? I always thought it was so that the rust would not spread?

Oh and by the way that birchwood is friggin amazing looking.... now I really want to do that to a blade.


Might it also hide pitting?

this was just what I was looking for, now off to the shop

make sure you get before and after pictures!!!!!!!

If you have a tumbler you might want to try my experiment. http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ina-hours.html I just used water for it, but the premise is the same as rust bluing and I'm sure that I could try other chemicals in the tumbler for different colors.

Originally Posted by BigBlue

So.... it offers no protection?

I feel that if the surface is all used up it must be harder to penitrate.

That is not to say it should be un-oiled... but maybe a little more lax on it.


I say this because why do you reblue a gun due to wear? I always thought it was so that the rust would not spread?

Actually it offers little if any protection against rust and corrosion as true bluing is a form of controlled rust.
It is used because it is traditional,to die for when done in the oldworld manner,and it cuts glare on fowling pieces.
Thats why you almost never see Bluing on military arms,they are parkerized,Plasma coated or anodized today.
What would be to die for would be a razor color case hardened in the old way,but thats a major undertaking only a few people know how to do today.

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

What would be to die for would be a razor color case hardened in the old way,but thats a major undertaking only a few people know how to do today.

Why do it the hard way?
Kasenit Surface Hardening Compound 1 lb - MidwayUSA

This seems simple... and cheap....just getting the heat right.....

But does this not seem rather close to just folding steel to make something like damascus?

Your just adding more and more carbon to the skin of the steel... I think this would be great, but why not just make the blade from a high carbon steel? I now it would be harder to hone... but it would hold its edge for quite a while...


or maybe I don't get something about case hardening...

Originally Posted by BigBlue

Why do it the hard way?
Kasenit Surface Hardening Compound 1 lb - MidwayUSA

This seems simple... and cheap....just getting the heat right.....

But does this not seem rather close to just folding steel to make something like damascus?

Your just adding more and more carbon to the skin of the steel... I think this would be great, but why not just make the blade from a high carbon steel? I now it would be harder to hone... but it would hold its edge for quite a while...


or maybe I don't get something about case hardening...

Not the same,case hardening with colors is done in a furnace,packed with animal matter,teeth,hooves,bone,take many days to get the colors correct,look here:TurnbullMfg. Co. for firearm restoration of antique guns - antique revolvers, antique pistols - including Winchester rifles, Marlin rifles, Parker shotguns, Colt revolvers, and more