Thread: Ya'll think this W&B is beyond repair?

Originally Posted by pitbulls20

Its looks like its going to take many many hours of sanding. I hope you can save the scales. For some reason I like them.

Ya great scales...I hope so too

beautiful ,it will come up a treat
Regards peter

Well I took some 60 grit sandpaper (lowest I had) which got rid of a lot of the rust...but that black crap (oxidation??) just wont come off, at least not the tough stuff. I have the blade soaking in hoppes no.9 and I was going to leave it there overnight...I figured if it can get rid of gun bore fouling maybe it would help. Im still waiting for bills second CD, and no I havent searched all the threads so yell and scream if you want too...but 2 questions:

1. will the hoppes hurt the metal in any way (I doubt it..but could it actually help)?
2. Do I HAVE to have the razor re-ground, is that the only way to get to a usable state? I dont mind pitting as long as it wont affet the shave, I dont want to hollow out the razor at all though.

Here is the stuff in HOPPE'S #9 NITRO POWDER SOLVENT from and MSDS, its the best I could get.


Ingredients
No. CAS Number Ingredient Percentage Remarks
1 64-17-5 ETHYL ALCOHOL 0 - 35 % default range
2 8008-20-6 KEROSENE 0 - 35 % default range
3 00-00-0 TRADE SECRET INGREDIENT(S) 0 - 25 % default range
4 00-00-0 ORGANIC ESTER 0 - 10 % default range
5 7664-41-7 AMMONIA, AQUEOUS 0 - 10 % default range
6 00-00-0 NON-HAZARDOUS INGREDIENTS chemical identities withheld as a trade secret:no % given by mfg

errr....HELP?

If you only have hand tools, you are in deep doo doo.

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the most difficult to restore, you got yourself a heavy 8.

I wouldn't touch that one for less than $150 or so, and that's certainly not an offer. I can usually fix most razors for a $100 or less.

Pack that one away and bring it back out after you have done about 10 others with at least some moderate success.

Hoppe's won't hurt it, but you are not accomplishing anything by using it on this particular razor. It's worth restoring, but if you start out with it, you may never want to restore anything ever again.

Sorry if you don't like the news. Maybe you can get someone to disagree so you can be mad at them and not me when you give up.

Originally Posted by urleebird

If you only have hand tools, you are in deep doo doo.

On a scale of 1 to 10, 10 being the most difficult to restore, you got yourself a heavy 8.

I wouldn't touch that one for less than $150 or so, and that's certainly not an offer. I can usually fix most razors for a $100 or less.

Pack that one away and bring it back out after you have done about 10 others with at least some moderate success.

Hoppe's won't hurt it, but you are not accomplishing anything by using it on this particular razor. It's worth restoring, but if you start out with it, you may never want to restore anything ever again.

Sorry if you don't like the news. Maybe you can get someone to disagree so you can be mad at them and not me when you give up.

LOL, no Bill I'll take your word for it. Can I ask you what particularly about it makes it an 8? Is it the metal the oxidation...or just the years of neglect?

Joe suggested I send it to Ross Cutlery, to reground...would that make it usable and if so, would they have to hollow it anymore than I would have to to make it usable?

Thanks for the reply! I only paid 9.99 I knew it was a gamble, so Im not gonna freak out over it.

It'd be better to let someone else do the grinding, for sure. The reason it's an 8 to me is because there is just too much surface that needs to be ground away, including on the tang. $22 is a bargain if they can do a decent job.

It's not a wedge, it's a 1/4 hollow, so it's not a big deal to regrind.

It's a worthy challenge... even for me.

I could be wrong about this, but even wedges have some hollow in them. Chances are good you probably wouldn't even notice once you start shaving with.

Cool looking razor Josh, but as Bill said, that one looks challenging as hell. I think the pitting (which is holding all that black stuff you are talking about), would take quite a bit of time even with power sanding.

I could be wrong about this, but even wedges have some hollow in them.

Yea, Joe, if you are calling this razor a wedge you not only could be wrong... you are. The difference between a wedge and a 1/4 hollow grind is pretty significant, even if some wedges have slight concave properties to the master grind. The point not being that this razor didn't have any hollow at all, but that it is clearly not a wedge.

I guess if I had to, I could take a pic showing the differences. I could even drag out a wedge or two with a complete flat grind.