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Thread: Cell rot
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03-24-2011, 10:02 AM #11
mrbison;
Too bad about the celluloid rot
Whatever you do, don't leave that razor in any closed space and definitely keep it away from your other razors.
Do not put it in a plastic bag. That will only serve to confine the acidic gases from the rotting celluloid and will actually hasten the rusting of the blade.
The best you could do is leave the razor out in the air with the blade open and away from the scales. Better still, unpin the razor and put those scales somewhere else... preferably dispose of them.
- Ignatz
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The Following User Says Thank You to ignatz For This Useful Post:
mrbison (03-24-2011)
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03-24-2011, 11:34 AM #12
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The Following User Says Thank You to BanjoTom For This Useful Post:
mrbison (03-24-2011)
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03-24-2011, 01:12 PM #13
There's a seller on eBay who does a set of wet/dry sandpaper from 120 grit up to 2000 grit for under £5, if your in the UK. I've used it and it works pretty well.
WET AND DRY PAPER GRITS 120 - 2000 SANDPAPER MIXED 320 on eBay (end time 01-Apr-11 10:02:03 BST)
pick mixed grit
regards Alex
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The Following User Says Thank You to justalex For This Useful Post:
mrbison (03-24-2011)
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03-25-2011, 12:50 AM #14
So, I'm not quite sure what you mean by "may not be easily saved." Are you referring to the possibility that I might end up removing too much steel if I sand before I have it honed? Thanks for your patience. I have looked at both the wiki and the stickys in the forum for depinning and sanding advice and I think that I'm mostly ready. Just want to make sure I do everything in the correct order...
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03-25-2011, 01:29 AM #15
I should have been more specific. Whenever I see rust or other degredation at the edge, it makes me wonder "how much steel will I have to remove, and how much time will that take me, in order to get the bevel set."
It is possible that, once you sand away however much you want to in order to get the razor as clean as you want it to be, that you end up honing and honing and cannot set a proper bevel because you do not find clean steel to form the edge.
I prefer to throw on a layer of tape, do some honing, and try to assess how much honing will be necessary to set the bevel. Based on that, I'll decide if it's worth it or not to spend the time restoring and honing the razor.
So by "may not be easily saved" I was referring to the amount of honing to find clean steel and get the bevel set.
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The Following User Says Thank You to holli4pirating For This Useful Post:
mrbison (03-25-2011)
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03-25-2011, 03:01 AM #16
Thanks holli4 - that makes sense. I just want to get all my ducks in a row so to speak before I begin. I think that I'll de-pin the blade and toss the scales. I don't have any hones so I guess that means I should start hand sanding. If it looks good I will probably send it out to have someone hone it. I would eventually like to get some translucent scales like the ones that it had originally. Anybody know where to pick them up from? Are there any vendors out there selling clear plastic scales?
This razor was my great grandfathers so I'll probably keep at it till it looks good/ is functional. Luckily, the other three razors that I inherited from him were in excellent condition. This one is definitely a dog though, probably because of the old celluloid... Thanks everybody for the advice!Last edited by mrbison; 03-25-2011 at 04:29 AM.
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03-25-2011, 11:56 PM #17
Today I took out the pin and threw those nasty scales away. I cleaned the blade up a bit to see the extent of the damage. The pitting is worst by the toe of the blade. I'm thinking of doing a light sanding job - just enough to clean the blade up and get rid of the major ugly spots, but maybe not go so deep as to completely remove all of the pits. I'm afraid I might end up with a full hollow! I was wondering about using my dremel to clean/ polish the blade. Is there consensus that this is a bad idea? I saw some vids on youtube that made it look pretty legitimate...
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03-26-2011, 01:01 AM #18
If you have cell rot the scales are out gassing acid vapors.
A plastic bag will protect the other razors but not steel
in the bag. Once the scales begin to go there is no turning
back, they will continue to out gas corrosive vapors and
get fragile. One tell is that the corrosion is worst on
the part of the blade covered by the scales. If another
razor in the box has bad scales the corrosion on other
razors will not be as bad on the part of the blade covered
by the scales.
Protect the steel with something even Vaseline or mineral oil
from further damage.
If the steel is not beyond help, some of the vendors have
inexpensive plastic replacement scales. Some have brass
pins, some have micro screw fasteners.
You can postpone replacing the scales long enough to
cleanup, hone, strop and shave test. If the blade is
gone -- it is gone. The important part for shaving
is the 3/16 of an inch near the edge (or less).
Always oil razors well before putting them up
for a longish time.Last edited by niftyshaving; 03-26-2011 at 01:20 AM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to niftyshaving For This Useful Post:
mrbison (03-26-2011)