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Thread: Crack in blade edge?

  1. #11
    learning something new every day Deerhunter1995's Avatar
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    well i agree with the guys, try to hone it out and if nothing else you have an excuse to get a new hone or two to do the job with,


    best of luck to you,

    deerhunter.

  2. #12
    Special Agent Gibbs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deerhunter1995 View Post
    well i agree with the guys, try to hone it out and if nothing else you have an excuse to get a new hone or two to do the job with,


    best of luck to you,

    deerhunter.
    Don't need a new hone, have a 1" X 30" Harbor Freight belt sander. Don't get worried. I was showing another forum member how cool the blade is even when using the belt sander. I'm not hoggin' out the blades with 120grit. I have 600, 800, 1000 grit German belts. 1K belt with the finger on the blade "LIGHT" touch doesn't even get warm enough to ...well... get warm. But, I can take some serious metal down with it in a lot less time than with a stone.
    ~~ Vern ~~
    I was born with nothing and managed to keep most of it.
    Former Nebraskan. Go Big Red

  3. #13
    I shave with a spoon on a stick. Slartibartfast's Avatar
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    It sounds like you really want to try this, so go for it. The worse that will happen is you will still have a non-shaving display piece.

    Well... I hope its the worse that will happen.

  4. #14
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    If you are going to try to salvage this blade, I would go with the 600 grit belt and take it down until you are past the crack. As Max has said, you'll probably just end up with a 4/8 or 3/8 blade if you don't wreck the temper.

    Other than that, save the handle and pitch the blade.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

  5. #15
    Special Agent Gibbs's Avatar
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    Taking it down to past the cack is probaby the best ideas. Even if I were to successfully put in solder there at the crack it would always be a few thousandth wider-stiffer there than anywhere along the blade edge. Scotch tape on both sides should stabilize the crack during the removal of metal.
    ~~ Vern ~~
    I was born with nothing and managed to keep most of it.
    Former Nebraskan. Go Big Red

  6. #16
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Geez Vern, you spent more time talking about this project on all the forums then it would have taken to just try it...

    Go embrace the challenge and get it started already you could have been shaving this razor by now LOL
    JoelLewicki likes this.

  7. #17
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Geez Vern, you spent more time talking about this project on all the forums then it would have taken to just try it...

    Go embrace the challenge and get it started already you could have been shaving this razor by now LOL
    Busted! I GUESS it doesn't hurt to get other opinions...
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

  8. #18
    Know thyself holli4pirating's Avatar
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    You could try to hone/sand it out, but given how much metal there is to take off and how much it would eat into the stabilizer and how much time it would take, I wouldn't bother myself. Too many other razors out there.

  9. #19
    Special Agent Gibbs's Avatar
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    Yes, other's opinion are alway welcome. There are many folks that are in other forums besides here, and no all the memeber is other forums vist this forum. Always nice to see ideas and feedback on plans and suggestions. FWIW, I did try the low temp solder and it did stabillize the blade there, but even though it was honed and shavable, it was not flexible there and as such, running a blade edge down my thumbnail, (as Glen had posted in another forum) it came to that spot and didn't give like the rest of the blade. May or may not give issues, but I tend to think uniformity in the edge is the key to a good razor's ability to shave. So, when I do have the time, I might just work at taking the edge up that 0.085" to see what it would be like. Very thin blade all along from near the top of the spine all the way down. I think I can keep it out of the stabilizer, even if I eliminate some of the edge.

    And, yes, there are lots other blades. Some 20 other shave ready razors are in my drawer. This is "not" the one and only, but a challenge, nonetheless. The guy who sold and sent me this blade was so gracious that he sent not only another razor to take it's place, but 2! Both 5/8 Geo. Wolstenholm & Sons Sheffield England razors, with the little pipe on one side and says "SUPERB" under the pipe (both). One blonde plastic, the other blue with some light streaking in the plastic handles. Very clean, and shiny, with jimps on top and bottom.
    ~~ Vern ~~
    I was born with nothing and managed to keep most of it.
    Former Nebraskan. Go Big Red

  10. #20
    HLS
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    I'm afraid I may be ridiculed for this, but could you just remove that piece of blade and then sharpen. The crack looks like it may be ready to circle back down to the blade edge making a "notch" in the blade edge. You could then soften the corners of the notch and sharpen and shave normally......only with the notch in the blade. If you don't like it then you could just grind/sand the blade down like you originally planned. Jus wonderin....
    Example below.
    http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/w...usaderwithgat/


    HLS Jim
    Last edited by HLS; 04-08-2011 at 10:06 AM.

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