Thread: Crack in blade edge?

Well, the other night, I used the belt sander at 800 grit and a witness line on the blade and took down the whole of the blade to the point close to the top of the crack, where it curls back toward the heel. Then I put on the 1000 grit belt and finished getting rid of the crack. I held it at more than the angle that you would use to hone with, with the spine about 1/8" away from the belt getting material, and not setting a bevel. At the 1000 grit level, I taped it, and set a bevel, and touched it with the leather 1" x 30" belt. Cut all the hairs you want off your arm at that point. After that, I refreshed the tape, and took to it with a series of slip water hones. Finished up on a C12K wide hone. I shaved with it last night. Does well. pops hairs anywhere along the edge.

Now, before you get excited, the 800 and 1000 grit belts were done so light, 1 pass then wait a few seconds and repeat, that at no time did the blade even get hot enough to, well hot enough to feel warm. It's quick, took about 15 minutes before I started in on the water hones. My bare finger was on the blade the entire time as I steadied it going across the finer belts. No heat, so I would be safe to say, no temper lost. When I rinse my blades in water the water would heat them about 2x hotter than what I got on the belts. Pics of the NOS A. Fiest and Company Solingen Germany "Monterna".





I checked it out with my transparent T ruler and on the 1/8 side markings it is between 4/8 and 5/8, and just a little ways down from 5/8 right now.

HLS, blades flex to some degree. This one does quite a bit because of the thin blade and how long it's thin. Two sharp blades would not flex at the same time, in unison, and it would be a dangerous proposition to have 2 different flexing blades cutting on your face at the same time. One might cut and the other might dig. I could have done what I did with a Mulcuto razor I have that I got at the local antique store for about 3.00 and simply eliminate the notch AND all the rest of the blade back from the notch and then dull the whole lenght, heels to the actual cutting edge. That worked. I have shaved with this little blade a few times and it is really impressive for lack of pull. Also, it is only cutting a little wider on your face than most 2-blade disposable razors.



Top part is a mess with pitting. I used tape to hone it. I also cut jimps in the top and bottom when I had the blade out before putting it in a schale from a broken Butcher & Wade razor I bought at the antique store just for the handles. Honed up nice, though, as looking though 20X thre is no nicks or pitting right at the blade edge. Handy little razor around your lips and chin.

Excellent point about the two parts of the blade flexing....................that never crossed my mind.

Thanks, Jim

That belt sander ought to get the blade hot enough to solder the crack!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Pitch the blade.

Sorry, Jerry, it doesn't. I've honed it to 12K and stropped it and shaved with it twice now. Still sharp, no metal discoloration. Blade maybe got as hot as 80F during the take down. How hot's water?

BTW, to Lynn, Glen and others, the blade is now a 9/16. Wasn't quite able to leave enough for 5/8 but it's wider by about a 1/16 than the 4/8, so has to be around 9/16 blade now. I run the blade down my thumbnail, as per Glen, and see the ripple effect, heel to toe. Blade is now fine.

There is another thing you can do -do nothing just hone and try shave with it some time it's work!
I had a similar problem with my BENGALL and it did work, still shave with it sometimes.