Results 11 to 20 of 31
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04-05-2011, 09:29 PM #11
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04-05-2011, 10:16 PM #12
Actually oily woods can affect epoxy and CA as well. Your best bet is to rub a little acetone on the surface to help remove the surface oils before applying your finish (don't apply finish over wet acetone, allow to evaporate). Thanks to a suggestion by Glen I have come to utilize this on all woods, not just the oily ones and it amazes me how many of my minor issues were from oils even in domestic woods.
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The Following User Says Thank You to deighaingeal For This Useful Post:
joenasarino (04-06-2011)
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04-06-2011, 09:58 PM #13
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Thanked: 13Does anyone know anything about fiberglass resin? I ask because it comes in a large quantity for relatively cheap. 100 times cheaper than CA
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04-06-2011, 10:08 PM #14
Fiberglass resins are generally not great finishes. They are usually tinted either purple or yellow depending on what it is. They age quickly getting brittle, yellowing and flaking. I would suggest a substitute of quality epoxy finish.
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The Following User Says Thank You to deighaingeal For This Useful Post:
joenasarino (04-06-2011)
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04-06-2011, 11:56 PM #15
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Thanked: 13Good to know before I bought some, thanks. What are some good brand name epoxy resins? I haven't seen what I bought before from the hardware store, and now I'm confused as to what to buy.
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04-07-2011, 01:13 AM #16
I wouldn't suggest just any epoxy as there are many formulations for specific applications. For CA you can save some cash by purchasing larger bottles like the Hot Stuff products from Woodcraft. As for epoxy finishes you can use a bar top finish like cannonfodder suggested or you can use System Three MirrorCoat, I have never used it, but have heard great things from some trusted finishers. I personally use a custom mixed epoxy, but they are very expensive and are best purchased in large quantities to counteract. The closest thing I have found is a product I use for flyrods. It is called Flex Coat Lite formula rod wrapping finish, it is available from Angler's Workshop - Fishing Rods, Reels, Rod Building and Fly Tying catalog number F2S. This product is pretty good and this number is the 2 oz pack with separate syringes for the hardener as the resin. This is great for precise measurement as well as the fact that you don't want to use normal syringes with epoxy. The epoxy pack sells for around $12.
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The Following User Says Thank You to deighaingeal For This Useful Post:
joenasarino (04-07-2011)
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04-07-2011, 01:38 AM #17
My vote goes to oils &/or shellac. Labour intensive but results feel good as well as look good.
The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.
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04-07-2011, 05:07 AM #18
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Thanked: 522What a great thread subject. I think it would make a very good get-together seminar topic.
The finish on the scales is usually the first thing we see looking at a razor for the first time,
and as such, it's very important to the overall look of the razor.
I have a nice block of Cocobolo waiting in the wings and now, after finding out that it's a finicky
finisher, I am almost afraid to cut it up and use it for scales. I will proceed with caution.....JERRY
OOOPS! Pass the styptic please.
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04-07-2011, 08:47 AM #19
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Thanked: 13It sounds like a good rubbing of acetone on the cocobolo should make it workable. That's a good looking wood. I just ordered some spalted tamarind and amboyna burl, some holly, and bloodwood, can't wait to get on these. I'm trying my hand at a CA finish on some ebony scales right now, into coat 2...
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04-07-2011, 11:51 AM #20
The thing about the oily woods is though....they're not finicky at all. They just need a very good polish and no finishing product. I have a razor that was scaled in Cocobolo and the person who did it simply gave it a nice polish and it's stayed good for the past 3-4 years. I do the same thing with knife handles.