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Thread: Quick question about hand sanding...

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    Senior Member MattCastle's Avatar
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    Default Quick question about hand sanding...

    So I'm about to take on my first restoration and I have a quick question about hand sanding. I read the wiki but it doesn't explicitly say this. When sanding, how close to the edge do you go? I don't want to destroy what little bevel there is by the time I've worked my way up to the 1k grit. Also, how long do I stay on 220? Just until all the patina is gone, or do you only use 220 if there is pitting?

    Thanks for the help

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Just I would sand the whole blade and not worry about the bevel. I am sure you will have to rehone the razor after you are done sanding.
    Stefan

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    the deepest roots TwistedOak's Avatar
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    I only use 220 for pitting and deep scratches. I have found that patina is removed with much finer grits. If you don't have pitting, rust, etc. on the bevel (or very close to it) I wouldn't worry too much about getting super close to the edge while sanding. It won't matter that much if you do hit the edge because you will most likely be resetting the bevel after you've finished sanding/polishing anyway. my .02, the pro's might have better info.

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Don't worry about the edge in regards to the bevel...but remember that the edge can bite you! I VERY seldom use anything more coarse than 400 grit. Fresh 400 will take a lot of steel off if you are removing pits.
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    Senior Member blabbermouth ace's Avatar
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    When I"ve removed stains with steel wool, I've taped the edge with a thin strip of electrical tape to protect it and to avoid cuts.

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    Senior Member str8fencer's Avatar
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    The wiki has a great article on hand sanding. I'd recommend taking a look, as it answers your questions about grits and also covers some important safety measures, re: PaulX608's Walnut Block. Best of luck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    Just I would sand the whole blade and not worry about the bevel. I am sure you will have to rehone the razor after you are done sanding.
    Same here.

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    Information Regurgitator TheBaron's Avatar
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    aye, don't worry about the bevel, you'll most likely have to reset it in my experience. I don't usually start any lower than 400, but I will drop lower than 400 when I see how bad the damage is based on what 400 reveals.

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    Senior Member MattCastle's Avatar
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    It didn't turn out to be a problem, which was good. Although now I'm realizing I probably should have tested the edge with a hone before I undertook restoring the blade. Unfortunately I only have a 4/8k norton, so I couldn't have done that if I wanted to.

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    'with that said' cudarunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattCastle View Post
    It didn't turn out to be a problem, which was good. Although now I'm realizing I probably should have tested the edge with a hone before I undertook restoring the blade. Unfortunately I only have a 4/8k norton, so I couldn't have done that if I wanted to.
    There is nothing wrong with the Norton 4/8! Check out this link! The video is here at SRP 'Somewhere' but I can't find it! Anyway, GSSIXGUN made a wonderful video about using the 4/8k from Bevel Setting to a Shave Ready Razor!!

    I use this as a basis for all of my honing! It works GREAT!

    Here's the link!
    YouTube - gssixgun Honing on a Norton 4-8
    PaulCam likes this.

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