Thread: Shortening blade

I'll have to grind it anyway because I want a round point when I'm done. I just don't want the blade to twist.

Thanks for your help.

Lori

Hey guys, I wont be much help but i wanted to ask out of curiosity. Could you do it with a high speed steel(tungsten alloy) axe saw blade while the blade it under water?

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Just remember that heat is the #1 enemy when working on a repair/salvage job. If you are looking to make a fixed blade, you might check out this thread: http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tml?highlight=

i was looking at doing something like that, though i planned on making the handle much smaller in diameter, with no finger grooves or anything

Originally Posted by 111Nathaniel

Hey guys, I wont be much help but i wanted to ask out of curiosity. Could you do it with a high speed steel(tungsten alloy) axe saw blade while the blade it under water?

if you water running i would say yes go head try it out.

ive also thought about how the best way to shorten a blade and came to think of a hacksaw since it dosent get the heat up that fast but maybe the vibrations will cause the blade to chip or crack? but then again you probably have to sand the blade a bit when you are with it anyway. Dremel does sound good if u have that kind tools to use though. Any other opinions on the hacksaw idea?

Take care everyone!

A straight is normally harder than a hacksaw...if it's not, the heat treatment is more than likely gone.

Oh ok my fault then sry..hehe

Use a bench grinder with a well dressed wheel. Keep your fingers close to the grind and when you feel the blade getting warm, dunk it in water. Any abrasive, including cut-off wheels will generate heat; the issue is being able to sense the heat and then quench the blade before it gets warm enough to boil water, which is a temperature well below the hardening altering danger point. And this is somethng your fingers will know very quickly.

In rock cutting, drilling and polishing heat is the enemy too. Rock tends to shatter if it gets too hot or heats unevenly. What a lot of lapidarists prefer is a dental drill since they turn at much lower RPMs than a Dremel tool. Sometimes you can find those on Ebay and the like. For one blade that's probably not an option but for someone making a hobby of restoring vintage blades it might be worth while. I've never tried one with metal though.

Lori