Thread: Is it just me or is peening not very fun?

Originally Posted by tekbow

I know the razor is on show (very nice scales, like wood on a razor a lot) but gotta say lol the real standout in your pic is you computer keyboard! VERY Steampunk, like a lot

Thanks! I cut up some old typewriter keys and revamped a stock Dell keyboard


Thanks for all the feedback. I'll get some more peening practice under my belt. Maybe the task won't be so unpleasant once I know what I'm doing. I'm sure I was hitting too hard when I bent the post.

I am using 1/16 rod and I think the washers were "0" stainless.

Do any of you guys use something as "depth gauge" when setting the amount of pin showing above the washer? I wonder if there is something I could hold up next to it make sure I'm not setting too much or too little.

+1 to previous posts, I also rather enjoy peening, I definitely dont rush doing it, and if Im building scales dedicate a day to just peening, and polishing. I also dont count how many (light) taps I do, but would say sometimes go easily in the 1,000s ( I like my pins tight ) For ur first time, I would say u did just Fine , Keep it up !!!

Originally Posted by tumtatty

...snip...
Do any of you guys use something as "depth gauge" when setting the amount of
pin showing above the washer? I wonder if there is something I could hold up next
to it make sure I'm not setting too much or too little.

,,,depth gauge... hmm...

You can stack some extra washers as a depth gauge, then cut as flush
as you can and file it smooth to remove all but the one you need
from the stack and then tap tap. That will get you the same length
modulo one washer thickness every time.

Very helpful info for us new to rescaling! Thanks to everyone for their responses.

Regards
Louis.

Depth gage eh... How far the pin sticks out depends on how large I want the head of the pin to be (within reason, too much and you'll never get em tight). I usually have my pin sticking out no further than the thickness of the jewelers file I'm using to file the head, and usually less than that.

I think the secret lies in the fact that the lighter the hammer, the more localised, close to the impact surface, the swelling of the pin will be. The logical extension is a ferry in the last 1mm. of its movement into dock, which will expand the pin all along its length. But I think a jeweller's or watchmaker's hammer (try eBay) will expand much less of the part which lies inside the wood, than a relatively massive tack hammer moving more slowly and thus delivering equal energy per whack.

Is the "washer" really a tiny washer, either on the surface or inlaid into it? I think you might get better results with a piece of tubing, epoxied into part or all of the length of the hole. You would have to expand the pin much less to lock it irremoveably in brass, say, than in wood or bone. You could easily make up a simple die and punch to create a little flange on the end of your choice.

A large range of brass and aluminium tubes is commonly available in model-making shops, and probably also nickel silver, copper and stainless on eBay. Another very useful source for tools and materials is Jantz Supply for all your Knife Making needs .

Thanks Caledonian!
Yeah its a washer..."0" Stainless from MicroFasteners. Maybe I should've used a bigger one.
I've never thought about epoxying a "washer" into place. Have you ever tried that?

I was wondering if I could use permanent pins like they do on knives. I'd love to use some thick copper wire somehow.

I was thinking that an epoxied-in sleeve of tubing would be better. But a washer ought to be fine if it is a tight fit on the rod. That might be more easily obtainable with 1/16in. rod in washers made for 1.5mm., say. Or if you can get large sewing or leathercraft needles with a tapered point, use them to swage the hold just big enough for the rod to be a driving fit. On the final assembly it ought to go in from the small end of the tapered hole which you make that way.

The class act is a taper pin reamer, which is used to make the holes to hold machinery etc. together with drive-in steel pins. But they are quite expensive.

Little if any taper should be needed to fix the pin at the handle spacer, if epoxy to the spacer and on the pin is used. The same should have if you have a stop pin, possibly surrounded by scale material, part-way down the handle. Only the pivot pin is subject to levering forces which tend to prise the scales apart.

Any time I inherit a straight-razor manufacturer, the hole in the tang will become larger, so that the scales can locate against a non-rotating bushing, or a shoulder in the pin. But a hole in hardened razor steel is hard to enlarge.

First of all, congrats on your first full restore!! Most Excellent.
Second, peening rivits is like everything else we do here. The more practice you get, the better the end result.
Here's something that you might try to get in a bit more practice. Cut some 1/16" rod in 3/4" or 1/2" pieces. File the ends flat. Put the pin in a small vise, like the little ones you get at the hobby/tool store that clamp onto your work table. Take your time and peen one end of the pin. Like the guys said above, light little strikes with a small ball peen or chasing hammer. You don't need a lot of overlap on the peen, just a little bit will hold. Once you have several half done rivits you can slip the washer in place and then use Glen's popsicle sticks method and practice the other side of the rivit. If you don't want to use up your good washers, you can get a thin sheet of metal (brass or whatever) and drill 1/16" hole, then use a small coping saw or jewelrs saw and cut your own practice washers.

hope this helps, and good luck,
you're well on your way!!

Originally Posted by tumtatty

Thanks Caledonian!
Yeah its a washer..."0" Stainless from MicroFasteners. Maybe I should've used a bigger one.
I've never thought about epoxying a "washer" into place. Have you ever tried that?

I was wondering if I could use permanent pins like they do on knives. I'd love to use some thick copper wire somehow.

IMO, The washer hole should be as tight to the pin diameter as possible. The closer the pin is
to the size of the washer hole the less rivet effect you need and the closer to the washer
you can cut the pin off.