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  1. #1
    Beginner recurvist22's Avatar
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    Default Shaping G10 scales

    Hey guys/gals, I'm working on my first ever start to finish razor restore, and so far have about 10 hours in hand sanding a Greaves wedge blade. I'm going to put some G10 scales on it, and have just a couple questions about shaping them down. From what I can gather here, getting them cut seems to be a chore. I've picked up a couple of metal cutting Jigsaw blades(can't find any metal cutting scroll saw blades around here) and will probably start on them in a few days. My question is this, are there any tips or pointers that any of you can give me to working with this stuff? I know to wear a respirator, but about shaping and sanding, is sandpaper enough? Also, how brittle is the material? Is it similar to acrylic that can crack pretty easily, or is it pretty durable. I know that's a couple of questions lol but I'd really appreciate any advice or tips you all can give. Thanks in advance. Blake

  2. #2
    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
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    I would highly suggest a bench vice + a hand-coping saw for the initial rough cut out of G-10. Thats how I cut mine out, even though I have a bunch of power tools. It is much easier, and you won't ruin $8+ band saw blades or scroll saw blades... the average coping saw blade costs like 50 cents, and one per set of scales will do it.

    As for shaping it, you'll have a VERY hard time if you're only using sandpaper -- i would highly recommend a belt sander of some variety (even if its just a hand held belt sander that you flip over and secure to something)... and I personally use 40 or 60 grit belts for the initial shaping of G-10. The time you will have to spend to get nice rounded surfaces by hand is going to be more than I'd have the patience for.

    respirator of course..

    thats all I got for ya

    good luck

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  4. #3
    Beginner recurvist22's Avatar
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    awesome, I have a handheld belt sander, i'll pick up a couple of belts to go with it. Now, from what I've read, you can just keep sanding with higher and higher grits and then buff the scales without having to put an actual finish on them, is this correct? Also, what thickness should I be going for on the scales? I know alot of this is personal preference and will depend on the size of the blade, but maybe just a general idea? The blade isn't one of the 1/4" thick ones, it's a little smaller than that.
    Our name is Equality 7 - 2521

  5. #4
    GUNG-HO FOR GENCOS thewatermark's Avatar
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    +1 to everything Brad said.
    I cut my G10 with a scroll saw , and use about 3 blades per set, which only cost me 2 bucks for a 5 pack. I have tried a coping saw but I am a weakling and had trouble with it, although have done a set and know its possible, also as Brad said he does it all the time.
    As for sanding thats the easy part, G10 is really easy to sand, its not brittle , and it goes by pretty quick. I would suggest getting a belt sander too, because it would be soooo much easier for you. ( harbor freight has them for 60 bucks usually and if u get a 20% off coupon even cheaper)
    Also once done with the rough sanding and u start to finalize the shape always wet sand it with sandpaper, stops all the dust from gettin in your lungs.

    EDIT: Finishing G10 what I do. When wetsanding I go from 120-2k, then micromesh up to 12k , or I will swap it out and do 120-2k then buff on cotton wheel with plastic polish.
    Last edited by thewatermark; 05-29-2011 at 02:02 AM.

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  7. #5
    Beginner recurvist22's Avatar
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    Ok, you guys are awesome, thanks very much for your help
    Our name is Equality 7 - 2521

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